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Curing Your Cannabis Crop

Curing Your Cannabis Crop

When you can’t grow large amounts of marijuana, you want to make sure what you do grow lasts for a long time. The best way to ensure your harvest lasts year-round is to cure it properly. Curing prevents mold, mildew and general spoilage. Plus, if you’ve grown anything worth smoking, and it’s more than you can stash in a drawer, you’ll need a storage plan. Curing is how you safely store marijuana long-term.

There are many techniques for curing marijuana; and learning how to properly dry, cure and store your crop is a skill set that quickly pays for itself. You’ve worked hard to grow the best weed; why ruin it by slacking off at the end?

This guide will explain how to dry, cure and store your marijuana like a pro so that you can enjoy top-shelf marijuana. But don’t worry, if quick and easy is more your style, I’ve included the shortcuts as well.

Why You Should Cure Marijuana

Why You Should Cure Marijuana

Why You Should Cure Marijuana - Image powered by Bigbudsmag.com

The best marijuana is cured. From cannabis cup winners to expertly grown medical strains, curing is not an option, it is the rule. However, many do not realize that you do not have to cure marijuana to enjoy it. It’s only required if you intend to keep it for a while. Freshly grown weed (often called green marijuana) is also enjoyable, but not cured and should be consumed as soon as possible. Because it is green, it can become moldy or develop mildew, especially if stored.

Some commercial growers, both legal and black market, prefer to spray their harvest with chemicals instead of curing to shorten the production time. While this saves them money, it does not necessarily improve the experience for the end user. As a home grower, you can control everything involved with your cannabis, including how it is prepared for long-term storage. Cured marijuana can be safely stored for months without impacting the flavor or potency. In fact, many believe that curing improves these qualities.

If you’ve started with great genetics, you’ll probably want to reuse them. Curing marijuana properly can preserve seeds for future use. If your flowers produce seeds, those seeds can be saved for future grows, but only when cured correctly. If they are harshly dried, the seeds will be ruined.

If you aren’t planning to store your marijuana, curing is a matter of preference. It is entirely possible to produce good marijuana without it; however, for the best quality, it is a must. Many believe that cured buds produce a smoother effect, stronger potency, and better taste. This may be due to the processes effect on terpenes and cannabinoids. Still, others prefer green marijuana and avoid storing their harvest.

If you are not planning to cure your harvest, do not store your buds with other grow. If they become moldy, you could quickly ruin an entire crop. In fact, try not to store any uncured marijuana – consume it fresh, just like any other perishable good.

The Curing Process

The Curing Process

The Curing Process - Image powered by The420shack.com

The curing process is a two-step. It involves an initial drying period, followed by an extended drying period. The length of this process is up to you, with many suggesting that the longer the process is, the better. The initial drying period usually takes about a week, after which you cure for 2 weeks to six months. Two to four weeks is recommended (at a minimum). The drying process can be done in the open air, whereas the curing process is done in a closed environment.

Both drying and curing can increase the smell and bring out the subtle flavors of your buds, indicating the greater involvement of terpenes. Curing affects the smell of fresh marijuana by breaking down chlorophyll, removing the noticeable taste of hay or grass. If you grew a strain that is known to cause anxiety or coughing, the process of curing could also reduce this effect. The best way to experience the difference is to cure some of your grow and compare it to freshly harvested buds.

To optimally cure marijuana, you should carefully trim your harvest based on your environment, slow dry your buds in the open air, then continue drying in quart-sized glass mason jars. The room temperature should be around 70°F (21°C), with 50% humidity during the drying process and 58-65% Humidity, while curing in the jars. There are other methods of curing, of course, with varying effectiveness, and we will include those as well.

The critical thing to remember is that curing is an exercise in patience. If you can be more patient, you could be rewarded with superior results. If you choose to use the quicker methods, you could reduce the overall level of THC, smoothness of your smoke and seed options. However, anything is better than having unusable moldy weed.

Preparing to Dry Your Crop

Preparing to Dry Your Crop

Preparing to Dry Your Crop - Image powered by Herb.co

Once you’ve harvested your plants, you need to immediately plan for drying. Not only does it make your marijuana smokable, but it’s also the first step in the curing process. The drying process begins the moment you cut down your plants, so every grower needs to choose their ideal method before it’s time to harvest.

Depending on your chosen method, you can dry your marijuana in as little as a day, but it could take up to a week. The first three days of the drying process are the most crucial for preventing mold and bacteria growth, and the slower the drying process, the better. You can also use speed dry methods (as discussed later) but these methods are not appropriate for curing and could impact the flavor of your final product. You should do your best to not over-dry your buds, but, if you accidentally do, you can fix it with products such as HumidPacks.

Regardless of how you choose to dry your marijuana, start by properly trimming your harvest. Cut down your plant, either by the bud or the branch. Then trim the buds so that it is easier for them to dry evenly. If you live in a very dry area, leave a few leaves on your buds – this will keep them from drying out too quickly. If you live in a humid area, remove the buds from the stems and trim as many leaves as possible.

For a reference, here’s what we mean by dry and humid:

  • Dry areas have humidity that is under 30% RH
  • Humid areas have humidity that is greater than 60% RH

Humid areas will also benefit from using a drying rack (or raised mesh racks) instead of simply hanging branches of fresh cut marijuana. Keep in mind - big buds may take longer to dry.

Once you are done trimming, save some of your trim for other goodies such as marijuana butter or oil. You’re now ready to start your chosen method of drying. Decide where you will dry your harvest and plan to check on them regularly.

Hanging Your Buds

Hanging Your Buds

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The traditional method of drying plants---the way it's done by large-volume commercial growers---is to simply pull up mature plants by their roots and then hang them upside down in a dry place until nearly all moisture has evaporated.

Despite popular belief, plants are not hung upside down to allow THC to "run" from the roots into the foliage. In fact, the primary reason plants are hung upside down is for convenience; it's just easier to hang them in that orientation---the same reason that tobacco leaves are still hung by their roots for drying. A cord lashed around the stalk, below the last branch, is held securely in place when tied, unable to slide past the plant's large root ball. You can also hang them upside down in a closet using clothes hangers. The possibilities are endless.

Another vital reason for hanging freshly pulled marijuana plants is because it dries more slowly this way. It’s the same method used to "cure" tobacco leaves whose smoke would be disagreeably harsh and unpleasant tasting if they were quick-dried artificially using heat. Being uprooted and forced to dry sends a plant into high-gear survival mode – causing a high level of simple plant sugars in the tissues, and a less-bitter chlorophyll. And like tobacco, those phenomena of the curing process have the effect of making the marijuana you process for smoking into a product that is palatable, pleasing to the nose, and as gentle on the lungs as it is hard-hitting to the brain. In fact, some growers maintain that proper curing is necessary for coaxing maximum THC levels from a harvested plant.

Ideally, plants hung to cure should be under a roof to block out harsh sunlight that might dry plants too quickly and unevenly. It's also essential that falling rain is blocked from literally washing away THC from the outsides of curing bud, and of course to keep drying time to a minimum. Open air tobacco-curing sheds---essentially just a roof supported by posts---are probably best, but not always feasible; backwoods growers often accomplish the same purpose by stringing a green tarpaulin in the form of a peaked roof between trees, over a taut "clothesline'' hung with drying plants.

Drying time using this method is very dependent on humidity and ambient temperature, but figure on leaving plants---especially females with large, dense buds that have more moisture content---to hang for at least a week in dry 70-degree weather. Your optimal humidity is 50%.

If you are using an indoor drying room, you can adjust your environment. To do this try:

  • An air conditioner to cool the air and lower humidity
  • An evaporative cooler to cools the air and raise humidity
  • A dehumidifier to heat the air and lower humidity
  • A humidifier to heat the air and raise humidity
  • A heater to heat the air and possibly lower humidity

Be careful not to over dry your marijuana and do not let your buds touch each other while drying. For maximum smoothness and minimum harshness, your bud or leaves need to contain a percentage of moisture that allows them to burn less hotly with more smoke. Leaves that are at prime dryness will have turned dark green, but not yet brown, with slight dry crunching at the edges, but a tough and fibrous consistency throughout the leaf. Buds should feel dry and slightly crunchy on the outside, but sticky (the stickier, the better) when squeezed between thumb and forefinger.

Other Air-drying methods

Other Air-drying methods

Other Air-drying methods - Image powered by Herb.co

Air-drying, in general, is one of the best ways of drying leaves or whole harvested plants because it retains the most of a plant's pleasantly fragrant scent and spicy taste. In the case of trimmed leaves, the best way to air dry them is to bag the loosely wadded foliage---" fluffed'' to maximize the airspace between leaves---in an airy sack. You can also dry small amounts of trimmed buds using this method.

Two unsophisticated favorites are a plain brown paper bag and a net-type fruit sack. Using a paper bag, fold the top over several times to seal it. This setup steadily and evenly absorbs moisture from inside, then dissipates it to the outside. You don’t want the buds to sit in the same place and possibly develop mold; so shake the bag from time to time. This also helps them to dry more rapidly.

You can also lie buds on cardboard or on a drying rack– just remember to move and rotate them to prevent wet spots. A mesh onion sack containing loosely crumpled leaves is a favorite among pot growers who dry small amounts for personal use because the netting provides for maximum air circulation and the shortest drying time.

The most important thing to remember is to check on your plants. They need to dry slowly, but thoroughly. Watch your temperature and maintain a good drying environment. Even mildly hot temperatures, such as 85°F (30°C), can burn your marijuana- potentially reducing terpenes and cannabinoids. If you live in an environment with lots of molds, you may want to consider drying indoors with a dehumidifier or air conditioner or using a fan.

These air-drying methods are best for drying marijuana for smoking but can be used for curing if you do not dry them too quickly or too much. Remember, just like with the hanging method, to not let the plants get too dry. Leaves should be just moist enough to be flexible, but dry enough to burn evenly with a smooth, sweet smoke. Chop your dried buds into fine pieces with scissors for a superior smoke with leaves or bud. Air-drying or hanging is the only safe way to dry buds from which you intend to gather seeds for another crop.

Heated Methods of Drying Leaves and Buds

Heated Methods of Drying Leaves and Buds

Heated Methods of Drying Leaves and Buds - Image powered by Herb.co

Of course, air drying isn’t your only option. Sometimes you need to dry marijuana rapidly. In those situations, you can use heat to dry your buds but do so with caution. Heat significantly speeds up the drying process and increases your chances of over-drying your harvest.

Heat drying can also:

  • Remove terpenes and cannabinoids
  • Ruin seeds
  • Cause an earthy, dried grass smell
  • Make it impossible to cure your buds later

When marijuana is dried fully in less than 3 days, there isn’t enough time for the natural chemical process of curing to begin. Once all the moisture is removed from the plant, it is unable to cure – even if it is remoistened. As a result, you may end up with harsher weed that could cause migraines or increase anxiety symptoms.

You also do not want to over-dry your weed, because then it is difficult to smoke. However, you can properly dry marijuana for immediate consumption with heat using microwaves, convection ovens, or an open skillet.

Microwave

If you need to make leaf or bud smoking-dry in a hurry, a microwave is ideal. More than that, it's a handy tool for growers who frequently need to dry small samples of their crops for test smoking. Samples of an eighth-ounce or so can be quickly dried by placing uncut foliage in a heavy coffee mug and microwaving on high power for one minute.

Larger portions can be placed, about an ounce at a time, into paper lunch sacks whose openings have been folded over to close them, and microwaves for a minute at a time. At the end of each minute, remove the bag and shake it to help dry its contents; if you have more than one bag to dry, rotate them, letting one or more cool and dry while another is being nuked. Again, the dried pot will smoke best if you leave it just slightly moist. Do not use a microwave for buds that have seeds for next year's crop, because the radiation will kill the seeds.

Convection oven

Large amounts of marijuana can be quickly dried in a gas or electric convection oven. Spread plant material thinly over the bottom of a large ungreased pan, then place it into an oven at no higher than 150 degrees F (excessive heat will lower potency). Turn drying plants every fifteen minutes, taking care not to over-dry them. This method will also likely kill all seeds in any buds you dry.

Open skillet

This method of drying marijuana brings back memories of squatting next to a campfire in the deep woods, shaking an aluminum campfire skillet filled with fresh- picked marijuana over hot embers until the plants were dry enough to smoke. The same technique has worked well using an iron skillet over a propane camp stove in a remote cabin and in a household kitchen.

How to Know When Your Marijuana Is Dry Enough

How to Know When Your Marijuana Is Dry Enough

How to Know When Your Marijuana Is Dry Enough - Image powered by Lamota.org

Overdrying your marijuana is a problem for multiple reasons. It can ruin the quality of your smoke and also limit or entirely prevent curing. If you plan to use your dried marijuana in any way you need to know when it is dry enough.

Marijuana is finished drying when you touch it, and it feels dry. If you dried trimmed buds, you don’t want the buds to dry fully. They should only be dry on the outside. Leave a little moisture on the inside.

If you left your plants on the stem, a more precise method is breaking off a small stem to see if it snaps. If it snaps without any effort, it’s dry enough. If it leaves behind a stringy trail of plant matter, it is not dry enough. Bigger stems, on the other hand, should be a little flexible; this indicates that there is still a little water left, and you want that. That water will travel from the stem to the buds, providing the perfect moisture. You can also try to snap of an individual bud. If it pops off effortlessly, you are ready to go.

If you aren’t sure, err on it being slightly too moist. If you are planning to cure your marijuana, it’s better to be slightly moist rather than over-dry. The buds will finish drying during the curing process. If they are too dry, they will not be able to cure correctly. As long as your marijuana is dry to the touch, or snaps off of the stem, you do not need to worry.

Now that your marijuana is dried, you can either smoke it or prepare it for curing. If you choose to smoke it, remember, it still hasn’t been cured, but it will be a different experience than consuming green marijuana. Whether you plan to cure or store your marijuana, remove the buds, place them in glass mason jars and close the lid.

Curing Marijuana in Jars

Curing Marijuana in Jars

Curing Marijuana in Jars - Image powered by Growweedeasy.com

The curing process begins after marijuana has been dried for at least 3 days, but for the best results, use a slow-drying method that takes at least 7 days. Marijuana is ready to cure when it has 60-65% RH. If it is close to this, place it in jars but leave the lid open so that it can finish drying. If it is too dry, you may need to rehydrate your weed before it can be cured.

With traditional curing, marijuana is dried in a controlled environment. In this case, the controlled environment is quart-sized glass mason jars. If your marijuana was dried correctly, the containers will create the perfect humidity due to the moisture left in the plant. Your jars should be stored in a room kept at around 70°F (21°C). A hygrometer can help ensure your jars maintain the optimal humidity of 60-65% RH.

Place about an ounce of dried marijuana into the jar and fill it no more than ¾ full. You want to leave enough space for the buds to move when you shake it. Do not use a larger Mason jar, because it could encourage mold. Once again, make sure your buds are not wet when you touch them. If they are, do not put them in the jar; they will not dry enough with the lid on. If you’ve already placed it in the jars and notice an ammonia odor, that means your buds are too wet and are starting to grow bacteria. If its slight, you may be able to save it by simply opening the jar and airing out your buds.

For the first few weeks, you should open your jars once a day and inspect your weed. Shake your weed around a bit. Do this daily. It is crucial that this is done the first two weeks.

It is also essential to keep your marijuana at the right moisture level to prevent mold and bacterial growth. You can test your buds by touching to make sure the outside is dry or use a hygrometer to test the humidity in the jar after the buds had some time to ‘sweat.’ If your buds stick together, they are probably too wet. If they have over 70% RH, they are too wet and should be dried immediately. Depending on the humidity outside of the jar, you may be able to dry them further by leaving the lid open for up to four hours, or you may need to remove them from the jar and air dry them further.

During the first couple weeks of curing, your marijuana still won’t smell ready, although many choose to sample it at this point. Your buds will probably smell like grass, but after a while, you should notice that top-shelf cannabis aroma. Repeat the daily checking process for up to four weeks. Cannabis should not drop below 55% RH while curing.

After 2-4 weeks you can open the jars less often, perhaps once a week. Once your cannabis does not ‘sweat’ after 24 hours, it is too dry and cannot be cured further. Many people cure for four weeks, but you can continue the process for up to six months. Keep in mind, that after two months, the buds will start to lose some of their color. After a year, your buds will begin to lose their potency if not stored.

Wet Curing Marijuana

Wet Curing Marijuana

Wet Curing Marijuana - Image powered by Herb.co

While curing in low humidity settings is the standard, there is also a way to cure ‘wet marijuana.’ Also called high humidity curing, this method involves using bacterial growth to cure partially dried marijuana. This type of curing produces different effects and may deliver a harsher experience. It is a type of anaerobic curing.

Wet curing is similar to composting and is used to create brick weed. To do this, fresh cut marijuana is placed in a pile and left to ‘cook.’ After some time, the marijuana is wrapped and compressed for storage.

This type of curing produces marijuana that does not stay green, instead taking a tan or golden color after a few weeks. It is also very crumbly. Anaerobic cured marijuana is preferred by some people, but it is risky because of its tendency to cause bacterial growth or mold. For those that prefer the effects of ‘brick weed,’ dry curing for at least two months can produce similar results.

Fast-curing buds

Fast-curing buds

Fast-curing buds - Image powered by Hightimes.com

If you're like me, you're going to want to sample the results of your labors as soon as the buds ripen---especially if this is your starter crop, and there aren't buds to smoke from last season's harvest. Over the years I've worked out a speed-curing method that enables small batches of buds to be dried quickly for immediate consumption because it's just too intriguing to wonder how good this year's crop will be. Besides, having an ounce of good pot to smoke (or eat) takes the anxiety out of waiting for the rest of your crop to cure.

The trick is to retain as much of the buds' flavor and potency as possible, and the obvious tool for that job might seem like a microwave. While you can dry your harvest with a microwave, I don't recommend it because ultrahigh-frequency radio waves kill the seeds. Also, microwaves heat from the inside out, which works for drying buds, but it also overheats them, detracting from their taste and possibly from their potency. If you must use a microwave to dry damp cannabis, be sure to remove all seeds first (they tend to explode anyway), break material to be dried into fine pieces, and never heat it for more than a minute at a time.

The method that works best for me so far is to snip off the buds that I want to smoke, then place them in a sealable airlock bag. Squeezed all of the air out of it, then knead the buds from outside the bag, making them warm to "activate'' THC contained in them (much the same as making finger hash). Sometimes I even stand on the bagful of buds barefoot, squashing them with my heels until they become warm, wet with their own juices, and very dark green, almost black, in color (this operation does little or no damage to the seeds, which are protected by the diameter of the woody stalks to which they’re attached). At this point, I leave the bag sealed overnight and may even sleep with it under my pillow to keep the contents warm.

After about twelve hours, I remove the warm, crushed buds from their plastic bag and lay them neatly---with air space between them---on a dry, clean cookie sheet.

The next step is heating the crushed buds. Preheat your kitchen oven to its lowest setting---usually somewhere between 150 and 180 degrees---and place the cookie sheet of crushed buds inside for half an hour. After that, remove the sheet and turn the buds over. Replace the cookie sheet for another half hour. At the end of that time, the buds should be just slightly moist, and a little sticky---ideal for smoking. Gently remove the seeds, which are usually not harmed by this mild heating process, place the seedless buds into a coffee mug, and with large scissors chop them into pieces small enough to smoke.

Storing Marijuana Long Term

Storing Marijuana Long Term

Storing Marijuana Long-Term - Image powered by Herb.co

After your marijuana has cured for at least three months, you should plan for long-term storage. If you plan to keep your marijuana for a few months, the mason jar used for curing will be enough. Simply place them in a cool, dark environment and use it as needed. If you plan to store your marijuana for longer than six months, you may want to vacuum-seal them or tightly pack them in mason jars and store them in the freezer.

If stored for over a year, cured marijuana will have more of a mellow effect and have more of a beige color. The potency should remain intact, however.

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Comment Section

69 thoughts on “Curing Your Cannabis Crop


By nitharshan on 26 November 2012

More people should read this


By alphonso on 3 May 2014

I've grown marijuana twice and both times they're fluffy how do I make my weed more hard and content


By Jerztp on 28 April 2016

There are numerous reasons why your buds are fluffy/airy. One of the main culprits though is weak lighting. I'm not sure what your growing conditions are but this is the first thing you'll want to look at.


By Phil on 29 April 2016

What watt light do you use?


By Joe on 29 September 2017

It's the strain ur using or not enough light.


By Jesse Chavez on 8 November 2014

Is curing the same thing as drying? You say a lot about curing and drying but little about storage. How should I store it? Last year it went brittle on me and I had to water spray it, I lost most of the potency. Should I frizze the pot after it is dry? Thanks


By Norman Countryman on 24 March 2016

Over dried marijuana can be re hydrated by putting a couple of slices of apple in the bag and sealing it for a couple of days. Monitor to make sure the slice does not begin to mold and that the moisture has returned. Of course there is the time honored process of returning moisture by shaking in a pillow case over a pot of boiling water until rehydrated.


By Phil on 29 April 2016

By putting flour taco shell into your bag over nite will make your buds moist again


By Spyder on 5 June 2016

You can use a small piece of iceberg lettuce for remoistening without adding the apple flavor.


By Mark on 6 January 2017

Terracotta soaked in water dry with paper towel place inside zip lock bag check next day works well.!


By Mat on 28 April 2016

I use boveda packs to store my weed. They are 2 way humidifiers so if the weed gets too moist it will take humidity so it doesn't rot and if it's too dry it will add moisture and keep em fluffy and tasty


By Senryu on 5 January 2017

I use them too! They are great, though a little bit pricey


By happy on 8 January 2017

you use leaves from a mother plant or another plant to moisture back in to your weed. drying and curing is two diff. things. I cure mine in a mason jar and makes great storage. just berp jar twice a week until cured.


By noligney on 12 January 2017

no its not


By Natanael on 27 August 2015

I'm impressed, I need to say. Really rraely do I encounter a weblog that's each educative and entertaining, and let me inform you, you have got hit the nail on the head. Your concept is excellent; the issue is one thing that not sufficient persons are talking intelligently about. I am very completely happy that I stumbled across this in my seek for one thing regarding this.


By Jerry on 26 March 2016

Dry your buds on a simple window screen if you don't have a drying rack. Make sure to flip your rack daily to even the drying . About day 6 your buds will have lost most of their moisture and are ready for jars.I prefer the 1 qt jars. For larger quantity 5 gal bucket with screw on tops. Make sure to take the tops off daily to allow any excess moisture to escape. The buds should be rock hard before you even harvest and will get harder as they dry. Light is the key to harder buds, one can never have enough light. Shooting powder is also a must in the final weeks of flower. Curing in jars, when done properly will takes a few months and will reward the grower with a more intense, body high.


By David on 28 April 2016

The term shooting powder what is this?


By Big Al on 28 April 2016

Yeah, what powder are you referring to?


By Sean O on 29 April 2016

Using a food dehydrator is by far the best method for a fast dry. If you need it any faster, put it on aluminum foil over a light bulb. Or, so I hear.....


By Francine Burnett on 29 April 2016

Like the info. Helps a beginner like me. Thanx.


By latewood.ILGM on 30 April 2016

Jerry,

Welcome to our community blog.

I do not agree that freshly harvested buds are ready for jars in 6 days. A high % of the moisture must be evaporated before placing buds in jars.

Your advice to open and vent jars daily is sound advice.

Growers. When you harvest, make sure that the plant is dry enough to :SNaP!!!" whne you test the dryness of the stem before placing in jars.

I also recommend placing buds in a paper bag for a week or so; Allowing the inner bud to dry evenly with the outer portion, further preventing the possibility of mold. 🙂


By Jameson on 6 January 2017

Poorly researched article. No mention of a branch being dry when it snaps. No mention of 70degrees and 50% humidity? Lame, may unsubscribe after this. Curing improves flavor and harshness of smoke. Facts. Read a book.


By latewood.ILGM on 30 April 2016

Using a dehydrator for Cannabis is a bad idea. This is terrible advice, as is any way where you take Cannabis and dry it from a living plant to drying it in a few minutes and smoking it. Good way to get sick.

Grow it. Dry it! Cure it! Then...Smoke it!


By David A on 30 May 2016

Some advice for a newbie, my plants are in there fifteenth day of 12 on 12 off with four 300 watt full spectrum LED lights and no signs of sex, what should I do?


By latewood.ILGM on 9 June 2016

Well David A,

This blog is on curing cannabis after finishing it. Perhaps you would be best suited to join our support forum where we have many expert growers and members who love helping out a new grower. Happy growing:)


By zoomer on 5 January 2017

i know its off topic, but i would like to follow this thread,i am wanting to change over from hid/hps to what you are running , the 4x300 watt full spectrum led. or something similar, even tho its fill spectrum, its the lumen output that has to be factored in, to be a suitable hid replacement.


By zoomerduck on 5 January 2017

to the post :By David A on 30 May 2016 i forgot to add.


By Nakednthewoods on 30 May 2016

David, don't sweat 15 days with LEDs. Usually my girls are showing the initial signs of femaninity at 14 days but perhaps you are just not seeing what the girls are showing you. Go look again, the girls are probably showing. Do you see 2 hairlike growths , maybe an 1/8 or 1/4 inch long, sprouting from anywhere close to the stem?
or on any branches? If so, that is your girl. My experience....males show way before 15 days. Good luck, and grow happy.


By llatewoodILGM on 9 June 2016

Broveda 62% 2 way humidity control packs are what all the growers are using to cure cannabis these days. Great Product.


By StonerGarden on 6 January 2017

I just recently discovered Broveda 62% humidity packs. Currently I'm using them to keep the humidity correct AFTER curing. My curing procedure is to slow dry the bud until the stems snap then put into quart jars filled about 2/3 full. For about two weeks I open the jars, smell for mold and then close them. After this two week period I figure the curing is done. How would my procedure change if I used Broveda DURING the cure? Could I simply add a small Broveda pack to each jar and then figure the curing is done in two weeks? No more daily open/smell/close. Once the curing is done I fill the quart jar so that it's almost full, place a Broveda pack on top then close securely. Once a month I open the jars, check the Broveda pack and if starting to turn hard I replace with a new pack and then recharge the spent pack. Thanks for your great site!! I've learned a lot!


By Roy on 18 March 2018

I use 58% Boveda packs, that's what they recommend for medical marijuana


By Roy on 18 March 2018

Boveda recommends that is


By Maurice on 9 December 2018

I put a pack in all my quart jars w/ 1 oz. of weed , then vacuum seal the jar,it will last til the cows come home.


By Rothers on 5 January 2017

potency ? when dried by hanging vs fresh mature leaves diced and mixed with oil Then infused(heated)
and inserted into your fav. mix. boom one hour


By Jose B. on 5 January 2017

thank you for all your advice that really helped a lot of people.


By Aaron on 6 January 2017

Havnt yet had a chance for a successful grow but i enjoy reading these blogs and pre-learning from youns, now hopefully this next (hands on) season will be prosperous or at least partially, keep it up, thanks,Aaron


By Roy ILGM on 6 January 2017

I hope you get to grow this season Aaron! Not long now 🙂


By Snoopy sam on 30 September 2017

Aaron is obviously from the great city of Pittsburgh


By Ginny on 6 January 2017

Hey Robert 🙂 here's a quote from you in the Microwave drying section, "if you have more than one bag to dry, rotate them, letting one or more cool and dry while another is being naked." I know you meant nuked, not naked, just a typo...but it made me laugh. Thank you, I needed to smile!!


By Roy ILGM on 9 January 2017

Haha thanks for noticing, glad we could help 😀


By Patrick Monk RN on 3 November 2017

"FOODSAVER"
Feedback appreciated. After appropriate drying and curing I plan on vacuum sealing. How long should I cure for.


By den on 8 January 2017

whar are denBroveda 62% humidity packs



By den on 8 January 2017

or should I say Broveda 62% humidity packs


By doris Grierson on 10 January 2017

what is the simplest way to prepare the buds for seeds to grow next year if you just have 3 or 5 plants I would dry them upside down and then could you just put the in a jar? I want to bake with cannabis could I use leaves just of the plant? or how would I bake with it? I need to know how to get seeds and store and how to prepare for baking? dg


By Roy ILGM on 11 January 2017

Hi Doris, that are a lot of questions. I would like to advise you to hop onto our support forum. Our experts there will take the time to answer your questions in depth 😀


By Sirv on 1 June 2017

I got the mini harvest download!


By bud123 on 29 September 2017

moisten over dry weed. I use leaves from my mother plants or staging area plants. it works well, just put freshly cut leaves in with your dry weed and will moisten over nite


By Frank Cassianna on 29 September 2017

You want hard rock buds... feed them good shit...and sweeten them with molases and honey.... Thanks Robert great information, kind of do the same jar/dried buds for flavor


By William on 29 September 2017

Mollasses and honey; makes intuitive sense; if so, how much and how are they applied? And, I believe temperature affects the sugars of some plants; is cannabis one? If so, how to do such? Thanks...:-)


By Christina on 29 September 2017

I started just one seed in my window seal, late even. She's little but she flowered, I believe this will be my little hobby. but I'm having problems, well I keep reading i need to harvest when the hairs are brown. Im so Nervous... so... can I post a picture and can you guys tell me if she's ready or not.


By Tim dogg on 29 September 2017

If the hairs are mostly red or brown and the crystals are mostly cloudy she is ready. Enjoy


By Tim dogg on 29 September 2017

If u use a magnifying glass u can see crystal heads up close. Mostly cloudy and a few amber color is best. At least all cloudy. Hope that helps Christina.



By robert on 30 September 2017

when looking for those crystals that have started to amber, do you include the ones that extend out on to the leaves


By latewood_ILGM on 3 October 2017

Yes Robert,

Atrichome is a trichome. 😀


By rickee on 30 September 2017

dehydrator


By latewood_ILGM on 9 October 2017

No NO dehydrator. Chlorophyll will still be present


By Michael McComb on 5 October 2017

We just harvested our 4 sativa plants, trimed them down to mostly buds with some sticks, hung them in a closet with 65 degrees and 35% humidity and put a fan so the air circulated thru the closet. The buds were dry in 2-2 1/2 days. Is that even possible to over dry them?


By latewood_ILGM on 9 October 2017

Michael McComb,

You dried those buds too fast. 35% humidity ios too low. Humidity should be between 58-62%


By Michael Alba on 6 October 2017

What about putting buds in the refrigerator after drying


By latewood_ILGM on 9 October 2017

If your container is sealed really well, you could put in frig; However, you won;t get the correct humidity for curing in a frig'


By Andrew 78 on 24 October 2017

I just started growing the autoflower strain. My plants were fighting for light and grew as tall as 3-4 inches out from the soil.
Should I leave them be to continue growing, or should I be doing something else before it gets too heavy?
I am using light now for 18hrs. a day and 6 hrs of complete darkness now...fyi


By latewood_ILGM on 30 October 2017

Andrew,

I suggest you join our support forum at: support.ilovegrowingmarijuana.com

We can give you all the help you need, there. Happy growing 🙂


By Jeffrey Miller on 26 February 2018

I'm having a problem with the smell it still smells like grass it's been in the jar week and a half and I believe I'm doing everything right but the aroma is not coming out are there any tricks I can use to get the aroma to come out. Any helpful tips will be greatly appreciated I am desperate to get that um good aroma to come out.


By latewood_ILGM on 27 February 2018

Jeffrey Miller,

Once the "terpenes" have left the flower, it cannot be recovered. However; After proper drying and curing, you should have good tasting MMJ. It is a delicate process, the drying and curing of cannabis.


By Roy on 18 March 2018

MMJ ?


By latewood_ILGM on 18 April 2018

MMJ = Medical Marijuana. You must be old like me. LOL


By paul on 24 September 2018

through the growing season i pulled off the larger leaves as they started to yellow and to give more light to the buds. some i left in the grow room and they turned tan. the leaves dried in the dark remained green. is there any difference in potency or should i throw out the bleached ones?
thanks for all the info

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