Marijuana Nutrient Deficiencies – How to Recognize and Treat

I love marijuana nutrient problemsNutrient deficiencies or disorders in your marijuana plants can occur with every growing technique and in every growing medium; rock wool, soilless, aeroponic and hydroponic or soil.

Indoor marijuana growers usually have more problems with nutrient disorders than outdoor marijuana growers.

A nutrient deficiency always slows the growth of the cannabis plants down.

The nutrients deficiencies can be caused by many things but the biggest factor is pH value.  Nutrient disorders sicken the marijuana plant and a disproportionate amount of nutrients can cause toxicity or nutrient burn. It can also cause the lock-out of other important minerals.

In this Marijuana Nutrient Guide You will learn everything there is to know about marijuana nutrients:

Basic marijuana nutrients
The best pH levels for marijuana plants
Boron deficiencies in marijuana plants (B)
Calcium deficiencies in marijuana plants (CA)
Copper deficiencies in marijuana plants (CU)
Iron deficiencies in marijuana plants (FE)
Magnesium deficiencies in marijuana plants (MG)
Manganese deficiencies in marijuana plants (MN)
Molybdenum deficiencies in marijuana plants (MO)
Nitrogen deficiencies in marijuana plants (N)
Phosphorus deficiencies in marijuana plants (P)
Potassium deficiencies in marijuana plants (K)
Silicon deficiencies in marijuana plants (SI)
Sulfur deficiencies in marijuana plants (S)
Zinc deficiencies in marijuana plants (ZN)


Basic marijuana nutrients


I love marijuana nutrient problemsThe three numbers that identify the N-P-K ratio are listed on all fertilizer packages. The numbers are usually shown like this, 25-10-10, with dashes between the numbers. Nitrogen (N) is the first number and nitrogen is needed for leaf development or foliage.

Fertilizers intended for heavy leaf growth show a high first number, the other two numbers will be lower. Phosphorus (P) is the second number in the row. Phosphorus is very important for flowering and strong stems. At last, the third number represents Potassium (K). Potassium is good for a healthy metabolic function.

In some cases, after the macronutrients the micronutrients are listed. For example; Magnesium (Mg), Manganese (Mn), Calcium (Ca), Zinc (Zn), Iron (Fe) and Copper (Cu).

Make sure to download my free marijuana grow bible for more information about growing marijuana.

The pH of the water you give to the marijuana plant is related with the ability to absorb nutrients. The measurement of how basic (alkaline) or how acidic something is, is called pH. Think of pH like a seesaw. After you add nutrients, it is important to measure the pH value. You can use commercially available pH-up or pH-down mixtures to adjust the pH.

You can also use home remedies but more problems occur with this. The commercial products are quite inexpensive and are more concentrated. If you fail to manage your pH levels, the nutrients are basically wasted or unavailable. For hydroponic systems, failing to monitor the pH values can be disastrous. PH is also important for soil gardening.

Because marijuana plants in hydroponic systems need more of one nutrient than others, the water/nutrient solution should be changed every two weeks. You should rinse at the same time. The rinsing prevents fungal or bacterial growth, these fungi or bacteria attack the roots of the cannabis plants.

The best pH levels for marijuana plants


I love marijuana ph problems

The logarithmic measure of the acid-alkaline balance in water or soil is called pH. The most acidic solution is pH 1. A level of pH of 7 is neutral and a pH of 14 is the most alkaline solution.

For several reasons the pH has a profound effect on the cannabis plants. Various plants live under different pH levels, they have adapted to this.

In hydroponic solutions marijuana grows with a low pH of 5.5. Marijuana grows best in water or soil with a pH level between 6.0-6.5 (slightly acidic). Good garden soils consist of this pH level.

In this range the plants nutrients are water soluble. This means that the nutrients are available to the marijuana plants. When the pH level is outside of this range, the nutrients become less available because the nutrients won’t dissolve as well.

Make sure to download my free marijuana grow bible for more information about pH levels

There is only one accurate way to adjust the pH. This is using pH test papers or a pH meter. When the pH level is outside the range, the nutrients are less available to the marijuana plant. This means that the roots don’t have access to them and now the plant indicates deficiencies, even though the nutrients may be present.

If the pH level is outside the proper pH range, marijuana plants have small dark-green leafs and grow very slowly, when growing in water or soil. Check the pH (by using test strips or a pH meter) before you plant them in soil or planting mix.

To check the pH use collected runoff water. If it’s to alkaline, use soil sulfur to adjust the pH. If it’s too acidic, use lime. You can check with an agricultural extension agent familiar with local soils or a knowledgeable local nursery man. Ask them for advice on proportions because the soils have various reactions to adjustments.

Soils are mostly not indoor planting media. The media use as main ingredient peat moss, coir or bark. To adjust porosity and water retention, other materials are added. You can consider the mixes pest-free and disease-free.

If you want already pH balanced soils, use commercial potting soils and topsoil. When the plants are in the ground and the pH levels is out of range, you can still adjust the pH level. To raise alkalinity use pH-up. For the increase of acidity use pH-down. Keep checking the pH level in the soil every now and then. That’s the best way to judge if you have to stop these treatments.

Use pH-up or pH-down to keep in the range of 6.0-6.5 while using hydroponic solutions. The pH levels vary a little bit per strain. The ingredients of soluble fertilizers also affect the water pH. So adjust the pH after you added the soluble fertilizers.

Boron deficiencies in marijuana plants


I love marijuana boron deficiencyCannabis Boron deficiency is rare and occurs almost exclusively in western soils when it does happen. It is primarily indicated by the browning or graying of growing tips and then their subsequent death. The lateral shoots will begin to grow after that, but then they will eventually die as well. These shoots will look sunburned, gnarled, and will have a bright green coloration.

Brown necrotic dead spots will show up on the leaves, and the area around them will be composed of dying tissue. These deficiencies are similar to a lack of Calcium, but Boron deficiencies in marijuana plants are unique in that the necrotic spots they produce are smaller.

Petioles (leaf stems) and the main stems of the marijuana plant will be brittle and potentially hollow. Boron deficiency targets exclusively newer growth, meaning that it is “immobile.”

Eventually, the roots will stop growing and the secondary roots will also shorten and become swollen. Fungal and bacterial attacks are more common as the roots become more vulnerable.

Overabundant Boron is started largely by over-fertilization. Leaf tips will turn yellow and start curling inward. Eventually, the leaves will fall off and the marijuana plant will die.

It’s important to keep the Boron levels stable, because it affects a number of different processes within the plant including:

  • Maturation
  • Pollen germination
  • Seed production
  • Cell division
  • Protein formation
  • Healthy leaf color
  • Plant structure formation

Ideal amounts of Boron will maintain the strength of stems, stalks, and branches. It also helps calcium stay soluble.

There are a number of ways to treat Boron deficiency, but it’s always best to avoid the problem in the first place. Using something like Marijuana Booster could certainly help your cause. It contains all the necessary micro nutrients a marijuana plant seeds, including boron. If you run into a Boron deficiency, you can also  treat the water solution with a single teaspoon of boric acid per gallon of water. For quick relief, try borax, compost, compost teas or Marijuana Booster.

Calcium deficiencies in marijuana plants


I love marijuana calcium deficiencyCannabis Calcium deficiencies are rare for outdoor growers, unless the soil is too acidic like in pinewoods. It can occasionally be found in planting mixes but is considerably more frequent in hydroponic systems. If a soilless medium has not been infused with lime (a large source of calcium), a calcium deficiency may occur.

Certain water sources (distilled, reverse osmosis, and tap water) may not have large quantities of dissolved calcium. Calcium deficiencies can occur if you do not supplement this water with calcium.

Make sure to download my free marijuana grow bible for more information about growing marijuana

The signs of a calcium deficiency include:

  • Dark green leaves
  • Large, tan necrotic spots
  • Crinkling young shoots with purple or yellow colorations
  • Weak stems and branches (easily cracked)
  • Underdeveloped root system
  • Bacterial and root diseases

Many of these issues start in old growth, but they eventually migrate to newer growth (making calcium a semi-mobile nutrient).

It’s important to keep calcium quantities at a safe level. It helps keep plant cell walls, stems, branches, and stalks healthy and sturdy. Root hair growth is also aided by calcium. Calcium helps facilitate the uptake of the macro nutrient potassium  as well.

As with any nutrient deficiency, its best to avoid a calcium deficiency at all costs. You can do that by ensuring that your fertilizer and feeding schedule are always accurate. Using a product like Marijuana Booster can certainly go a long way in helping you achieve that goal, they’ve got a perfect watering schedule.

But, you can also use products like dolomite lime or garden lime in the potting soil or planting mixes. This provides calcium and also allows the pH levels to stabilize. Special calcium-magnesium formulas can also be purchased to add to the mix for fast relief. Calcium acetate or calcium-magnesium acetate are also options.

A compound called Calcium nitrate (CaNO3) can also give you a fast acting solution to a calcium deficiency. CaNO3 is very soluble, making it easy for the roots to uptake the calcium. Do not use this during the flowering stage as it will provide an overabundance of nitrogen.

Liquid calcium and liquid lime are both absorbed quickly by the roots. A single teaspoon of hydrated lime in a gallon of water will give you fast absorption. Adding something like dolomitic limestone to the planting mix can also be beneficial over a longer period of time.

If you’re growing marijuana outdoors, you should infuse calcium into acidic soils so that they reach the ideal pH range of 6.0 to 6.5. Dolomite lime, garden lime, fish bones, seashell, and even ground up egg shells can provide calcium to the soil over time.

Gypsum (or calcium sulfate) can help increase the calcium concentration of outdoor soils without manipulating pH that much. Do not add gypsum to soils that have a pH level below 5.5 as it will interact with aluminum (Al) and make the soil poisonous to plants.

It is important to note that many planting mixes and mediums have plenty of calcium. If the pH is too low, then calcium can stand to be added to the mix.

For hydroponic systems, it’s easier to incur a calcium deficiency. Hydro fertilizers might only have small amounts of calcium because water naturally contains calcium. If your water supply has over 150 ppm of dissolved solids, then you should have enough calcium. Anything less than that and calcium and magnesium should probably be added.

Liquid calcium and liquid lime are both absorbed quickly by the roots. A single teaspoon of hydrated lime in a gallon of water will give you fast absorption. Adding something like dolomite limestone to the planting mix can also be beneficial over a longer period of time.

If you’re growing outdoors, you should infuse calcium into acidic soils so that they reach the ideal pH range of 6.0 to 6.5. Dolomite lime, garden lime, fish bones, seashell, and even ground up egg shells can provide calcium to the soil over time.

Gypsum (or calcium sulfate) can help increase the calcium concentration of outdoor soils without manipulating pH that much. Do not add gypsum to soils that have a pH level below 5.5 as it will interact with aluminum (Al) and make the soil poisonous to plants.

It is important to note that many planting mixes and mediums have plenty of calcium. If the pH is too low, then calcium can stand to be added to the mix.

For hydroponic systems, it’s easier to incur a calcium deficiency. Hydro fertilizers might only have small amounts of calcium because water naturally contains calcium. If your water supply has over 150 ppm of dissolved solids, then you should have enough calcium. Anything less than that and calcium and magnesium should probably be added.

Copper deficiencies in marijuana plants


I love marijuana copper deficiency

Cannanis Copper deficiencies are uncommon, but they can cause major problems with your marijuana crop.

A copper deficiency will appear initially in the younger leaves with necrosis. The tips and margins of the leaves will exhibit coppery gray or slightly blue discolorations with a metallic sort of glare. In between the veins, the leaves will yellow.

Leaves may also start to wilt, curl, and ultimately die. Indeed, the entire marijuana plant might start to wilt. New growth will have trouble opening up, and the flowers won’t mature in males and stigmas won’t grow right in females. Copper has low mobility meaning that it isn’t permanently fixed to one location, but it doesn’t move much.

A surplus of copper is also rare, but certainly fatal. The plant will not be able to use iron (Fe) and its leaves will turn yellow. The roots grow to abnormal sizes and will begin to decay.

Download my free marijuana grow bible for more information about nutrient deficiencies.

Copper is vital for a number of plant processes like:

  • Proper plant production
  • Reproduction
  • Maturity
  • Carbohydrate metabolism
  • Oxygen reduction

Thus, it’s important to ensure that you do not have a copper deficiency or surplus. One way to do that is to use Marijuana Booster, which is designed to not only give you plants a boost, but to ensure that they are getting all the proper nutrients as well. Deficiencies can also be cured with the foliar feeding of copper fungicides like copper sulfate or chelated copper. Natural sources like greensand, kelp, and compost can also help with a copper deficiency.

Feeding the plants with water that has had dimes or quarters soaked in it is also an option. Dimes and quarters are composed of 92% copper.

Iron deficiencies in marijuana plants


I love marijuana iron deficiencyMarijuana Iron deficiencies can occur on occasion in planting mediums, hydroponic systems, and in outdoor marijuana plants.

In the event of an iron deficiency, you will notice a lack of chlorophyll in the new leaves, but they will not contain necrotic spots. These leaves will turn bright yellow with green veins. Newer leaves will exhibit “chlorotic molting” which produces brown marks on the leaf center.

Iron deficiencies are similar to magnesium deficiencies except that iron affects all new growth except the lower leaves. Magnesium attacks the lower and middle leaves at the start. Iron does not move fast around the marijuana plant, giving it a low mobility.

Iron is vital particularly for younger, still growing tissues in the marijuana plant. Enzymes require iron to function properly, and iron also allows for the synthesis of chlorophyll.

Solving this issue isn’t easy, but the right fertilizer and water balance can help. Using a product like Marijuana Booster is probably the ideal choice of many growers, but there are also other options at your disposal. For instance, you can opt for a foliar feeding option with a chelated iron fertilizer that also contains zinc and manganese (iron, zinc, and manganese deficiencies often occur in conjunction. Other fast-acting options include:

These should be added filially and directly to the planting medium itself. Rusty water may also be a solution.

An Fe deficiency may indicate a pH imbalance. Foliar feed with Fe chelated fertilizer containing Fe, Zn, and Mn, since these deficiencies are often found in combination. Other Fe-bearing supplements include compost, Fe chelates (often found in hydroponic micronutrient supplements), iron oxides (Fe2O3, FeO), and iron sulfate (FeSO4) for fast absorption. Supplements should be added both filially and to the planting medium. Adding rusty water also works.

Magnesium deficiencies in marijuana plants


I love marijuana magnesium deficiencyMarijuana magnesium deficiencies can occur in all planting mediums and hydroponic systems. It does not often happen to outdoor marijuana growers however. Symptoms will start in the lower leaves, as they begin to yellow and exhibit chlorosis. These leaves will start to curl inward and eventually die. Edges of the leaves feel dry and crunchy to the touch.

The magnesium deficiency will work itself up toward the middle and upper section of the leaves. The growing shoots will eventually shift from a pale green to a white color. The stems and petioles will all start to turn purple. This ability to travel upward makes a magnesium deficiency very mobile.

Magnesium’s main goal is to promote healthy veins and spur on the production of leaves. It is also needed for the production of chlorophyll and the breaking down of enzymes.

Make sure to download my free grow bible for more information about nutrients at this link

To fix a magnesium deficiency, there are a number of solutions, but the best one may be the use of a product called Marijuana Booster. It’s something that many growers use to improve the quality of their yields, but it will also ensure a healthy balance of nutrients.

Other fixes include:

  • Magnesium sulfate
  • Epsom salts
  • Dolomite lime
  • Garden lime
  • Worm castings

Magnesium sulfate and Epsom salts work the fastest because they are water soluble. Indeed, Epsom salts are the easiest fix for hydroponic systems. Use a teaspoon of Epsom salts per every gallon of water in the tank. Treat with a quarter of the original dosage for each subsequent treatment. You can also employ the use of Calcium-Magnesium.

Manganese deficiencies in marijuana plants


manganese-deficiency-marijuanaMarijauna Manganese deficiencies do not occur that often and are practically always linked with iron and zinc deficiencies. A lack of manganese will show up in young leaves as they start to turn yellow and exhibit small, brownish necrotic areas in the middle of the leaf.

The veins of the leaf will generally remain green. The outline of the leaf will become dark green. A surplus of manganese will produce an iron deficiency. Manganese does not move across the marijuana plant, making it immobile.

Download my free marijuana grow guide at this link for more information about nutrients.

Manganese is important for the breakdown of enzymes and also for the production of chlorophyll and photosynthesis. It also helps make nitrates available to aid in protein production.

An emergency tactic for replenishing the manganese levels is to foliar feed the marijuana plants with a fertilizer that has high water solubility and contains a lot of manganese. This fertilizer can be a special Fe-Zn-Mn fertilizer, a hydro micro, or even a manganese chelate. Add this fertilizer to the water/nutrient solution. Greensand and compost also have high levels of manganese, but absorption is slower. You should use a product like Marijuana Booster to ensure that you have a solid mix of every nutrient.

Molybdenum deficiencies in marijuana plants


Molybdenum deficiency in Marijuana PlantsMarijuana Molybdenum deficiencies are quite uncommon, but they do have a higher incidence in marijuana strains that change colors in cold temperatures (like blueberry or purple haze).

The symptoms will start with middle leaves that turn yellow. The signs of the deficiency will move toward the shoots and younger leaves as they become twisted and curled.

Leaves will turn pale and have a fringed or scorched look. Their growth will also slow or look strange. Older leaves that have experienced chlorosis will have rolled margins, slowed growth, and tips that curl inward and are red.

It’s not uncommon to falsely think that a molybdenum deficiency is actually a nitrogen deficiency. But, molybdenum affects the middle of the marijuana plant and then moves up (making it extremely mobile) while nitrogen starts out at the bottom.

Download my free marijuana  grow bible at this link and learn more about nutriets and marijuana

By contrast, an excess of molybdenum may resemble an iron or copper deficiency. Molybdenum primarily works from within enzymes to help transform nitrates into ammonia. The ammonia is important for protein production, making molybdenum rather essential.

Obviously, it’s important to stop a molybdenum deficiency before it even starts. Products like Marijuana Booster will certainly help with that endeavor. You may also want to use a foliar spray composed of water-soluble fertilizers. To avoid over-fertilization, use a small amount of a hydroponic micronutrient mix for this task. You can use them as foliar sprays or apply them directly to the soil.

For the most part, you’re going to find a lack of molybdenum when there’s also a lack of sulfur and phosphorus. By contrast, a molybdenum surplus won’t do much damage to the marijuana plant, but it can be harmful to humans if ingested in large quantities.

Nitrogen deficiencies in marijuana plants


I love marijuana nitrogen deficiencyMarijuana nitrogen deficiencies are one of the most common nutrient deficiencies found in our favorite plants. It starts initially in the lower leaves which turn to a pale green color. The leaves will then turn yellow and start to die as the remaining nitrogen in the plant travels to assist the new growth. This obviously makes nitrogen very mobile.

The mark of the deficiency will progress up the plant and only the new growth at the top will appear to be green. The lowest leaves will start to turn yellow and wilt. The process of the leaf’s death starts at the tips and goes inward.

You may also notice that the leaves are smaller, growth reduces, and the marijuana plants do not flourish. Stems and petioles gain a slight red or purple hue.

An excess of nitrogen produces a fuller, darker green expansion, but this is more vulnerable to pests and diseases. Also, the stalks start to lose flexibility and turn brittle.

Download my free marijuana grow bible at this link and learn to grow like a pro!

Nitrogen is easily one of the most important nutrients for the cannabis plant. It is directly responsible for producing chlorophyll and amino acids, and it’s also vital to the process of photosynthesis. Plant tissue is also made up largely of nitrogen, meaning that growth would halt fast in the event of a deficiency.

To fix a nitrogen deficiency, it’s best to use water-soluble nitrogen like Grow Booster to get the element directly to the roots. Other types of nitrogen (like urea) are insoluble and require breaking down before they can be used properly. Once fertilization has begun, any nitrogen-deficient plant will take in as much nitrogen as it can and the plant will regain its healthy Kelly green. Plants will recover in around 7 days, but the most-damaged leaves likely won’t recover.

Using any fertilizer that has a high “N” level in the N-P-K ratio will help the plant make a recovery. Many hydroponic vegetative formulas are water-soluble making them ideal choices for a nitrogen deficiency.

Grow Booster is composed of around 20% high-concentrated nitrogen that is extracted only from organic materials. If you follow the nutrition and water schedule precisely, it will guarantee a healthy growth for your marijuana plants and beautiful dark, green leaves.

Other items that might do the trick include:

  • Calcium nitrate (CaNO3) as a foliar fertilizer
  • Urine
  • Fish emulsion
  • Bat or seabird guano
  • Cottonseed meals
  • Alfalfa
  • Manure
  • Feather meal
  • Fish meal

It should also be noted that there is no point at which the marijuana plant should be without nitrogen at any point during its growth cycle. Of course, nitrogen is most important during the vegetative stage to encourage growth. Many people might suggest that you eliminate nitrogen entirely during the flowering stage, but that is not the case. While you should not have as much nitrogen during the flowering stage, you should still maintain enough nitrogen for the plant to manufacture vital amino acids.

Bloom fertilizers tend to have more phosphorus and potassium than they do nitrogen, but it’s common for plants to exhibit a nitrogen deficiency during the mid- to late-flowering period. This can cause plants to lose leaves and reduce yield as the nitrogen exits the old growth for new growth.

You should gradually switch over to bloom fertilizers to ensure that you don’t run into a nitrogen deficiency during flowering. Use the following fertilizer example for how to carry this out properly:

  • First Week of Flowering: 1 part bloom fertilizer and 1 part vegetative fertilizer
  • Second Week of Flowering: 2 parts bloom fertilizer and 1 part vegetative fertilizer
  • Third Week of Flowering: 3 parts bloom fertilizer and 1 part vegetative fertilizer
  • Fourth Week and Beyond: All bloom fertilizer

This essentially allows the marijuana plants to store enough nitrogen until the end of the flowering period.

Phosphorus deficiencies in marijuana plants


I love marijuana phosphorus deficiencyCannabis phosphorus deficiencies are rare but can cause major problems with your marijuana plants. They will grow very slowly and produce small leaves (older ones will be targeted first). They will become dark green and weak, eventually producing purple or blue discolorations. At the leaf’s edge, you’ll see tan or brown colors and the leaves will turn downward. Fan leaves will change to a dark green color with the same purplish hue. The bottom leaves will yellow and die entirely.

Petioles and stems will start to change to a purple or red color, but some strains have naturally red or purple petioles and stems.

Phosphorus is vital during the flowering stage, meaning that it’s important to keep its concentration up to produce higher yields.

The main goal of phosphorus is to help in the growth of the roots and stems while also promoting the plant’s overall vigor and helping the germination process. Again, phosphorus is vital during the flowering and reproductive stages.

Download my free marijuana grow bible at this link for more information about nutrients

You’ll notice that phosphorus represents the “P” in the N-P-K ratio on most fertilizer packages. You can fix many phosphorus deficiencies by finding a water-soluble fertilizer (e.g. a bloom fertilizer) that’s high in phosphorus. Guano that’s high in phosphorus is available almost anywhere. Greensand and rock phosphate both provide phosphorus in a gradual sense.

You can also use a product like Marijuana Booster, which is meant to increase yields. It ensures that you have the right combination of nutrients (including phosphorus) so that you don’t have to worry about deficiencies.

Phosphorus deficiencies during the flowering period often produce lower yields. By contrast, an excess of phosphorus can cause “chemical buds” or it can “burn” the plant. Phosphorus absorption in cold temperatures (sub-50*F and sub 10*C) is difficult. Soluble phosphorus can work to provide greater yield in colder weather.

Potassium deficiencies in marijuana plant


Potassium deficiency cannabis plants

Cannabis Potassium deficiencies occur now and again in planting mediums and outdoor soil. They almost never occur in hydroponic systems.

The problem with potassium deficiencies is that they can occur even when the soil is well-fertilized and rich. This is often the result of flawed fertilization.

Marijuana plants that have basic deficiencies will appear vigorous and potentially taller than other plants. Still, the tips and edges of the bottom leaves will shift to a tan or brown color, develop necrotic spots, or simply die.

As it worsens, chlorotic spots appear on the leaves. The leaves produce patches of red and yellow in between the still-green veins, and the petioles and stems turn red. Growth will slow and leaves will grow smaller in more severe cases. The largest fan leaves will exhibit necrosis on the margins, and they will eventually die. Potassium deficiencies are, thus, very mobile.

Too much potassium will make the fan leaves produce a yellowish or white color in between the veins.

Download my free grow guide for more information about potassium deficiencies

Potassium’s role in the plant is vital. It is located in every part of the plant as it’s a major factor in transporting water. It’s also important for every stage and item of growth, including the most important piece of anatomy: the buds. Other things that potassium is responsible for include, water respiration, photosynthesis, the production of thick and strong stems, and resistance to disease.

Many of the problems associated with a minor deficiency in potassium merely affect the way the plant looks and not its growth or eventual yields. One easy way to avoid any trouble with a potassium deficiency is to employ the use of Marijuana Booster. It’s a fertilizer and feeding schedule combined so that you never lose track of how many nutrients you have in your plants.

If that doesn’t work, then there are a few quick fixes for dealing with a potassium deficiency. Using water-soluble bloom fertilizers that are high in potassium is a good start. Wood ashes are also a good delivery system for potassium.

Other quick fixes include:

  • Liquefied kelp
  • Potassium sulfate
  • Potassium bicarbonate
  • Potassium dihydrogen phosphate
  • Potassium silicate

Greensand and granite dust can both be used as gradual deficiency healers.

Silicon deficiencies in marijuana plants


I love marijuana silicon deficiencyMarijuiana silicon deficiencies are extremely rare, but it can prohibit the plants from producing sturdy leaves, roots, or stems. Fungal and bacterial diseases along with insect infestations are all more common during a silicon deficiency. Photosynthesis is limited and the eventual yield is also lessened. Silicon is not, however, mobile.

Silicon is important for creating a barrier between the plant and pests or diseases. It is also vital for creating sturdy stems and branches.

Some of the ways to rid yourself of a silicon deficiency include:

You can also try a product like Marijuana Booster which is meant to provide you with the best mix of nutrients to create the biggest buds and yields possible.

Sulfur deficiencies in marijuana plants


I love marijuana sulfur deficiencyMarijuana Sulfur deficiencies are rather uncommon. They show up initially by yellowing the younger leaves (occasionally the leaves turn red or orange). Growth becomes slow as the leaves start to narrow and become brittle. The leaves are also small by comparison and they look mutated. During flowering, buds may die and the overall growth of the plant is limited. Veins may turn yellow and necrotic areas may appear at the leaf’s base in severe cases. Woody, thin stems will get longer but not wider.

A surplus of sulfur will mitigate the size of the marijuana plant and its leaves will appear dead and brown at the tips. Excessive sulfur mimics salt damage with its limited growth and dark colors.

Root growth, the abundance of chlorophyll, and the production of plant proteins are all things that sulfur facilitates during vegetative growth.

Make sure to download my free marijuana grow bible and learn to recognize more marijuana nutrient deficiencies.

Perhaps the easiest way to solve a sulfur deficiency is through the use of Epsom salts. Simply irrigate the plant with Epsom salts and wait for its state to improve. One or two teaspoons of Epsom salts per gallon of water should work (filially and in the irrigation water). You can also mix in any nutrients that contain sulfur. Water-soluble fertilizers that have sulfur in some concentration will also do the trick. Other options include:

  • Elemental garden sulfur
  • Potassium sulfate
  • Gypsum

Do not use gypsum on soil that has a pH of less than 5.5. It can produce conditions that are poisonous to the plants.

You can also try a commercial product like Marijuana Booster. This is meant to provide the best combination of nutrients possible to create the highest yields for your plants.

Zinc deficiencies in marijuana plants


I love marijuana zinc deficiencyA lack of zinc can occur from time to time and the hallmark of a zinc deficiency is a collection of gnarled and twisted leaf blades. Chlorosis and the yellowing of older leaves in between the veins can also indicate a zinc deficiency. This is frequently coupled with a general pale feel to the marijuana plant.

Buds may also end up contorted or gnarled. Zinc deficiencies resemble iron or manganese deficiencies, but they affect new growth instead (making them immobile). Surplus zinc is very rare, but will create wilting and sometimes death.

Zinc is vital for the sturdiness and maturation level of the marijuana plant. The leaves, branches, stalks, and stems are all strengthened by the presence of zinc. Zinc can also be found as a vital factor in several enzymes and in auxin, a growth hormone. Without a solid amount of auxin, leaves and shoots can be stunted. Additionally, zinc plays a part in the production of chlorophyll.

One way to solve a zinc deficiency is by using a micro mix composed of iron, zinc, and manganese. Other options include zinc sulfate, chelated zinc, or zinc oxide. It may be worth your while to check out a commercial product like Marijuana Booster, which can provide you with ample nutrient values for everything from boron to zinc.

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4 thoughts on “Marijuana Nutrient Deficiencies – How to Recognize and Treat

  1. I have your grow bible but I don’t have the plant care book can you help. thanks I love your site

  2. It’s appropriate tjme to make some plans for the long run and it
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  3. Finally a website with related pictures for growers. I was able to pin point exactly my issue and ways to help fix the issue. Thanks

  4. I have a huge problem as soon as I’m in flowering my leaves start to get brown spotting or necrosis spots then they turn brown with the fan leaves curling up then some twist til the infected leaves becomes brittle and die and it seems to start with 1 or 2 plants then moves to all of them. My room temp. Never over 80 and humidity never over 50 please help

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