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Advanced growing techniques for a bigger yield

Advanced growing techniques for a bigger yield

Did you know you can train your marijuana plant? Plenty of experienced growers use a variety of techniques to shape their plants and encourage bigger yields. These methods make indoor growing more efficient and help maximize your yield.

Your marijuana plant may not look like it’s doing anything, but it is actually constantly looking for light.  Its leaves use its skill of phototropism to adapt to its surroundings as it searches for equilibrium. It can change its shape by redirecting leaves, elongating branches and twisting shoots. A marijuana plant can nearly grow in any direction in order receive enough light.

When a plant is grown indoors, it is limited. It may grow too tall and not have enough space to thrive or its natural shape may prevent light from reaching the bottom branches. The triangular evergreen shape of the cannabis plant works well in nature, but not with grow lights. The bottom of the plant is hardly able to receive any light! However, with the techniques mentioned below, you can train your plant to grow in a way that works for your setup and leads to more buds.

But beware! Doing it wrong can cause your plant to stress out so only apply these techniques when you’re certain you’re doing it right!

Pruning for a greater yield

weed plant pruning

Pruning is a process of selectively trimming plants so that they produce the most flowers or fruit. For marijuana plants, this means ensuring even the smallest amount of plants obtains the maximum yield. Pruning techniques are often used by professional growers seeking to maximize results in a limited indoor growing space.

Not only are pruned plants able to produce more flowers, but they also are able to produce bigger and heavier buds. This is because, by pruning, no energy is wasted on growing as many leaves and buds, leaving the remaining ones free to thrive.

Better than natural

When left on their own, plants will develop more branches than they can support. This leads to the eventual death of a certain amount of leaves. Over time, these dying leaves will fall off, but you can optimize the process by cutting them off instead. For plants that do not yet have dead leaves, removing weaker or less important branches (especially the lower branches) will also do the trick.

Pruning requires careful attention to your plants. You must keep an eye on the internodes – the space between its nodes- and remove any branch that has developed long ones. This is a sign that it is not receiving enough sunlight. You should also watch for branches that remain lower than the main shoots. They will not receive much light because they are blocked by upper leaves, and will ultimately be an energy drain.

Although most pruning refers to branches, some growers also choose to remove leaves. Whether the practice increases the positive effects of pruning is debatable, because leaves make and store energy. Growers should especially avoid cutting the large fan leaves, as they provide energy to the roots. Because leaf trimming is so risky, some growers only cut leaves in half, or tie them up to stimulate results without harming the plant.

Don’t stress out your plants

Although pruning has beneficial effects on a growing marijuana plant, it can also cause dangerous levels of stress. Like humans, plants respond to stress with a hormonal release. In the case of marijuana, the response includes the release of jasmonic acid, a growth inhibitor.

When jasmonic acid is released, plants stop growing and start healing. This is the reason why over pruning can lead to stunted growth. To prevent this from happening, prune over a period of time rather than all at once. A little bit of stress is okay for your plants (it encourages extra trichomes) but too much is torture.

Because pruning puts extra risks on plants, some growers prefer to let their plants grow naturally. These growers often are already growing high yielding plants, and do not want to risk slower or stunted growth.

Planning to prune

First of all, pruning should be done during the vegetation period of the plant’s lifecycle. This is so the plant has enough time to recover from the process and grow big leaves. If you are in a hurry to harvest, you can force them to flower afterward, but be sure to wait at least three days.

After pruning you will need to pay close attention to the health of your plants, ensuring they receive enough water and don’t suffer from a nutrient burn. Proper pruning can lead to a more valuable plant, but care must be taken not to harm your plant in the process. There are a variety of pruning methods that can increase the yield of your plant. We will discuss those below.

Topping marijuana for denser plants

how to top weed plant

If your plant is tall enough, you may want to consider trimming the top of its main shoot during the vegetative stage. Not only will this cut down on some of the height, but it can also lead to two main colas at the top instead of one. By simply pruning the tops of your plant, you can grow a bushier plant with more buds.

Topping helps marijuana plants grow bushier. When you cut a portion of the main shoot, you remove an important growth center in the plant, causing the growth patterns to change. The main shoot facilitates communication with the leaves, helping shaded branches to grow outward. This is potentially wasted energy if big buds are your goal.

Since topping involves the removal of the central stem’s main shoot, it encourages the plant to grow into a bush rather than something that looks like a Christmas tree. When you top your plants, they can grow in an inverted pyramid – like a cocktail glass with a whole bunch of buds on top. Cheers!

Topping is stressful on marijuana plants so it will extend the vegetative growing cycle.  However, this extra time is spent growing those new colas. Despite the risk, it is still an excellent way of training your plant to fit into a limited grow space or to slow down stretching.

How to Top

Topping a marijuana plant is a common practice that can be used in conjunction with other advanced growing techniques to get the best yield out of your plants. To top your plant, simply cut the top at the stem (between the nodes) directly above the leaves of the next node when it is young. There should be between four and five nodes total on the plant when you attempt to top.

While topping typically refers to the removal of your plant’s newest node, it can sometimes refer to the process of cutting any tip off of any stem. When it is done to the main shoot, however, it causes the shoots directly beneath it to grow faster and get larger. It will also, however, sometimes cause the shoots beneath to slow down their growth. To balance out the growth throughout the entire plant, repeat the topping process a few times.

Topping a plant affects the hormones in your plant. This can ‘confuse’ your plant, and it may stop growing while it figures out what is going on. This period of stunted growth can last for up to a week. Some growers prefer to top at night to help prevent this reaction, as most of the hormones travel to the roots at night and are less likely to be affected. Plants that are topped too young are also more likely to experience stunted growth due to the loss of vital tissue, so look for strong stems and at least four nodes.

The FIMing technique

how fim weed plant

The dreaded, “Oh F*ck, I missed,” muttered by growers, has grown into a favorite pruning technique for creating additional colas without over-stressing your plant. Also known as pinching, the technique of fiming earned its name from unsuccessful attempts at topping. Whereas topping takes off a significant amount of the stem, Fiming removes less and is typically done by pinching, rather than cutting.

When done correctly, fiming can create bushier plants by creating four colas out of one pinch. It is less traumatic than topping and does not make your plant any shorter. Just like other types of pruning, fiming should be done during the vegetative stage.

While fiming is technically its own technique, it can produce less consistent results than other methods. The colas will not come out evenly spaced, and they will not join the stem at the same place.

How to Fim

Fiming is relatively easy and is one of the least stressful ways to prune your marijuana plants. To FIM, simply pinch the top at the newest growth, leaving some behind. If done correctly, four new colas will grow out of that area. If done incorrectly, you may only see two or three.

You should FIM a plant when it has either three of four nodes. Taller plants will not produce as good results. Fiming is done by pinching, however, if you choose to cut the new growth, you should be careful to leave around 20% on the plant to make recovery easier.  You should also cut in a circular fashion so that what remains forms a cup. Leaving a small amount of the original new growth on the plant helps trick it into thinking it should grow four shoots instead of two.

After Fiming, your plant may look a little odd. This is normal, and not anything to be too concerned about. You will know your plant is doing well when the stems begin to thicken at the base. This is a sign that the plant is shifting its energies to new colas, rather than the one it had been growing.  Also, because Fiming does not remove much of the plant, it does not slow down growth, and you should notice results relatively quickly.

Super cropping for stronger plants

marijuana supercropping

If you’ve heard the statement, what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger, you already understand the concept of super cropping. Super cropping is a powerful pruning technique that helps stimulate a healthier plant and leads to increased potency and higher yield. Even though it is a pruning technique, there is no cutting involved.  It is done by crushing the interior of a stem, damaging its access to nutrients and water. Once healed, you’ll have a more efficient plant with thicker stems and a stronger foundation.

When super cropping, you are damaging the soft inner tissue of your plant in order to detour growth hormones (auxins) to other areas. This soft inner tissues are made of cellulose and include two groups that are responsible for transporting nutrients and water throughout the stem. These are the phloem and xylem.

When those areas are damaged, the plant will naturally start to rebuild by expanding the cellulose, increasing the space for nutrients and water. With super cropping, the nutrient pathways within your plant go from being a congested roadway, to a major highway. With a simple pinch, you control the flow of nutrients and water so that it goes where you want.

<p style=”text-align: center;”><strong>Download my <a href=”http://www.ilovegrowingmarijuana.com/marijuana-grow-bible”>free marijuana grow guide at this link</a> for more growing tips</strong></p>

Super cropping can be used in a variety of ways. Pinch the main stem to affect the entire plant, or pinch and bend the side branches to affect how the plant grows. Heavy buds need strong stems to support them, and super cropping helps make it possible. Super cropping can also lead to new colas on secondary branches. This is because those branches can grow so thick that your plant will think they are dominant shoots and begin to form colas on them. You are basically training your plant into creating additional tops that can flower.

Super cropping is an easy technique that is completed during the vegetative stage. It is appropriate for non-autoflowering plants because you will have the most time to work with your plants (by extended the vegetative period). This is not an option with autoflowering plants.

How to super crop

Supercropping is one of the easiest techniques for helping your plant grow stronger. You’ll only need your fingers to trick your plant into thinking its top has been removed. Plus, it is more gentle than topping and finning, because you do not break the stems.

Before you begin, you need to confirm that your plant is ready to be super cropped.  A good rule of thumb is 3 or 4 weeks old, but basically, it should be in its vegetative stage.  Then choose your area of cropping – most growers stay near the 1st and 3rd nodes. Everything under that point will receive increased nutrients.

Do not cut this area.  Instead, pinch and twist the branch (at the same time), holding it between your thumb and pointer finger. Bend the branch a little, but do not break it, you should only feel the soft interior collapse a little.

The area that you pinched may droop. That’s okay, it will heal (and grow back stronger). Just be careful not to snap off the branch – kink it like a gardening hose instead. If the healing process is taking too long, you can force your plant to remain in the vegetative stage until it is healed or string the branches up as support. You want the stems to fold over for a little while. If the plant stands up an hour after you’ve pinched it, you did not pinch it enough.

You can crop as many branches as needed, and you don’t have to do the entire plant at once.  If you are a first-timer, test out a few branches first to see how the plant reacts. Not all marijuana plants respond favorably to super cropping.

Monster cropping huge plants

Creating clones out of flowering plants may have been unheard of before, but the technique of monster cropping is indeed alive and well. It earned its name from the results you can expect to see – huge monster plants — and it is the most involved technique for creating a bigger yield.

Monster cropping is useful because it eliminates the need for mother plants. By creating clones out of flowering plants, you can continuously make new plants while also cultivating your next harvest. For growers with limited grow space, it is the best way to maintain an endless supply of marijuana.

Besides creating an efficient way to grow marijuana, monster cropping also creates large, bushy plants. This is because the process of establishing the clones stimulates the offspring into becoming stronger and bigger. These plants, who basically go through the vegetative stage twice, grow with extra nodes and branches. They are indeed cannabis monsters.

How to monster crop

Unlike other pruning techniques, monster cropping is completed during the flowering stage, at least 21 days in. Choose from one of the softer, lower branches. They will root faster. Cut across the stem so that the largest surface area is exposed.

After this, move the young cutting into a glass of water to prevent air from entering its delicate vascular system. That air could kill it. A small hydroponic setup or even a propagation bubbler is the ideal way to root your young clone and trigger a second vegetative stage. Some growers also use humidity domes. Once your cutting is safely within water, the important thing is a constant supply of fresh oxygen.

Your clone will need a vegetative light schedule (18/6, 20/4, or 24/0) but it won’t need much light. A single small CFL bulb will work just fine. While it is rooting, light pruning techniques are okay but do not disturb the flower on the apex.

Your plant will not look very impressive at first. Once they have rooted they will grow, but rooting your clone may take weeks, or it may never happen at all. Look for the presence of un-serrated leaves. It is the first sign of growth. You can also do some training techniques to encourage the process, such as tying down branches or applying gentle heat.

The safe bet is to create a few clones so that you have a better chance at success. Once it starts growing, you will quickly understand why it is called monster cropping. Monster cropped plants create tremendous results without the risky practice of fiming or topping.

Thanks for reading and feel free to drop a comment below or join fellow growers on our support forum!

Robert

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Comment Section

12 thoughts on “Advanced growing techniques for a bigger yield


By Ron Easley on 15 December 2016

Having trouble understanding “fimming”. I know pruning, but “fimming” is vague in its description. I think I am being swamped by too much information. I was getting better results when I didn’t “know” so much. My current crop is stunted, and my new seeds were very difficult to sprout. They are showing signs of not growing at all in their intermediate pots. I start seeds in water, plant them in small starter cups. When they get up a bit, I transplant to a larger small pot, then later to their 5 gallon buckets. The seeds sprouted, but are stunted and showing signs of no growth after several weeks. Usually, they look green and healthy. Now, they look yellowed and jaundiced. I am discouraged. I do not “feed” the plants during the early stage of growth. I saw yellowing and brown spots on my current crop, so I added some lime(as advised) to add calcium. This helped, but the well-ventilated plants remain small and about half the size they should be after 3 months. I am letting them grow another month, hoping that they recover. What bothers me most is that my new crop of seeds seem to be anemic somehow. I have done the entire process maybe 6 crops by now. I am seeing diminishing returns the more I “learn”. It’s very frustrating to burn all that electricity and get unsatisfactory results. I am at a low ebb in morale.


By Oz...both great and terrible on 16 December 2016

Opinion…
I wouldn’t worry about”fimming” until I have a plant growing robustly enough to be visible daily…by your description my first thought is that its to hot…I had the same issue even though I had installed an air conditioner with a digital control I was still burning the plants…I now have air cooled hoods w a high dollar fan and don’t have the problem..I’ve managed to grow 20′ wide by 12′ tall over 190 topped monsters outdoors in over 100° conditions but let the temp get over 80° in your grow room seems to be disastrous


By Dianne Yonan on 15 December 2016

I agree. The fimming descriptions are kind of vague. It appears like they are just pinching the top half of the two side leaves and the stem. To me it doesn’t seem like that would create , more grow sites. I guess you’s have to experiment to find out. So sorry about your crop. Kind of like me when mine got spider mites. I battled those buggers like crazy. I could get the population down but I never did get totally rid of them and my crop was not very good that time. So dis heartening when things go wrong. But we just got to keep on keeping on. The next batch will be better.


By New Grow on 15 December 2016

Thanks for the info. Funny you mention monster cropping, what happen I cut some clones and I had family emergency I had one of my friend took care of my plants, however my clones end up drying. Well, I went ahead and cut some more, however, the plants was already like 4 weeks into flower already, anyway I finally got them rooted like last week now they starting to come along real nice. You are correct the appearance is not ideal 🙂 but I must say they are starting to look wonderful every day…

Thanks for continuing sharing your knowledge and experience it is greatly appreciated!


By Guy Franklin on 15 December 2016

Agreed on the appearance of re-vegging Monsters (clones taken during flowering). But then they really take off! I’m seeing daily changes! I’m curious now about taking new clone cuttings from these now-vegging Monsters – when they root & grow, what characteristics should I expect? Monster effect continued or, since they are taken during veg period, will they behave “normally”? I’ll find out… hehe 🙂


By Andy Frier on 19 December 2016

I am still waiting for my seeds purchased months and months ago. All I get isemails which does not help me at all.


By Ronald Lincoln on 20 December 2016

can I pay for your thanksgiving deal 1/2 price off with a money order I don’t have a credit card yet.


By William Throop on 23 December 2016

You can always look into youtube videos on fimming if you want to see it done. Thanks for the advanced growing tips.

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