How To Grow Huge Marijuana Buds - 7 Tips

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How To Grow Huge Marijuana Buds

How To Grow Huge Marijuana Buds

If you really want to maximize the outcome of your harvest, you are going to need to figure out a few things. You’ll need to be able to identify the type of marijuana plants you are growing, and then know exactly where and how to increase growth.

The bud of a marijuana plant is the prized appendage that appears after a plant enters the flowering stage of its life cycle. The leaves of the marijuana plant contain THC, but the buds of female plants are the most potent product by far. So as an individual grower, it’s important to focus a significant amount of attention on the buds of your crop.

If you do it right, you can accomplish incredibly huge buds with a high THC content. This guide will equip you with the knowledge you need to accomplish that goal. Keep reading and learn to grow huge marijuana buds.

What are buds

What are cannabis buds

Before you can grow huge marijuana buds, you need to have a bit of background knowledge. For starters, a bud is the growth that pops up during a plant’s flowering phase. Although marijuana plants’ leaves also have a THC content, the buds have a far more concentrated amount. This is why the buds are the prize possession of any marijuana grower – they are the part of the plant that gets you high. While both male and female buds contain plenty of THC, there are some important differences that distinguish the two.

Male buds vs. female buds

Male vs female cannabis buds

Plenty of people seem to believe that male plants don’t produce smokeable buds at all. While it’s true that female buds contain the most THC levels, male buds are also quite potent and able to be smoked. Male buds look like round flowers that are jam packed with pollen. Be careful that your males don’t pollinate your females because your plants will start producing seeds and less THC. I only grow males to produce seeds and remove them from my female plants.

Download my free marijuana grow guide at this link for more tips

Female buds will start showing up about two weeks later than male buds, and they start out as growths that are round, white-colored, and hairy. They show up on the very tip of every branch, as well as at the top of the plant. If treated well, the smallest buds on your female plants will grow to be longer than two inches.

Since female buds really are the cream of the crop, you are going to want to ensure that their buds get as large (and potent) as possible. The best way to achieve this is simply by getting them to grow at a faster rate. The faster they grow, the more time they have to become huge. Read the article Male or female marijuana plants for more information about sexing plants

Speeding up bud growth

Speeding up cannabis bud growth

Once it has entered the flowering stage, the number one thing to speed up your plant’s bud growth is to remove any dying leaves. These leaves can be identifying by their yellowing color. They are a lost cause, and they are using up your plant’s energy and resources that could be focused on bigger and better things (namely, the buds). Take away the yellowing leaves to conserve these resources.

Instead of discarding these leaves, keep them and cure them properly. They have a high enough THC content that you can smoke them in case you run out of weed or while you are waiting for the big harvest.
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Another way of saving and focusing your female plant’s energy is by topping it. This is a form of pruning that requires you simply cut off the topmost buds. You can take this bud home to cure and smoke already, and in the meantime the remaining buds will grow even faster. Some growers swear by this every year to achieve bigger and more potent buds by the time the harvest rolls around.

The best nutrients

Nutrients to grow quality buds

If you want your buds to be fat and juicy, you are going to have to spoil them a bit. Take special care of them during the flowering phase of the plant’s life cycle. What buds crave most of all is phosphorous, so try a mixture of 10% nitrogen, 30% phosphorous, and 10% potassium (commonly referred to as NPK 10-30-10) to curb those cravings. This high amount of phosphorous is rather difficult to come by in today’s world, but mixing wood ash with water should do the trick.

Of course, the other elements of keeping healthy plants in general also come into play with growing big buds. Proper amounts of water and light, along with temperature and good genetics will all affect the way your buds grow. Read the article Best fertilizers for marijuana plants for more info on nutrients. For the best result, you can just use the special formula from the Marijuana Booster system, a complete nutrient kit for up to 20 plants.

How much light

Lights to grow huge marijuana buds

One of the most surefire ways of increasing your bud growth is by increasing the intensity of the light that is hitting your plants. If the light is not intense enough, your plants will have stretched themselves upwards during their vegetative state, becoming tall and skinny rather than short and bushy. This is not ideal for a decent harvest.

This is, of course, only possible to change effectively when you have an indoor grow room. If you are an indoor grower, it is a simple matter of moving the lights closer to your plants. If your plant has already grown uneven colas because of poor lighting during its vegetative state, it will be difficult to evenly and effectively distribute the light. The buds themselves should have direct exposure to the light for best results. Read more about Marijuana grow lights if you’re growing indoors

Carbon dioxide

Carbon dioxide grow huge weed buds

If you increase the amount of CO2 that your plant is receiving, you will essentially be “feeding” them more, allowing their growth to be sped up even further. Adding CO2 nicely complements increasing light intensity, since it basically is expanding your plant’s ability to use light. CO2 alone will not increase the yield. The more light and CO2 your plant gets, the more efficiently it will grow. This will also keep your plant from ever getting too much light since the added CO2 will increase its light capacity.

Download my free marijuana grow guide at this link for more growing tips

Although it’s pretty tricky to ever reach the light threshold, this is yet another way to “hack” your plant’s speed of growth. If you do decide to pump extra CO2 into your grow room, be sure to seal it off properly – although it works wonders for plants, high levels of CO2 can be very dangerous for humans. Read the article Growing marijuana with CO2 for more info

Temperature and humidity levels

Temperature humidity grow big weed buds

Temperature and humidity need to be at the right level for your plants to reach their highest budding potential. If the temperature is too high, your buds won’t have as potent of an aroma. Controlling your temperature can mean controlling the amount of potency and smell of your buds – when done properly. Make sure you pay special attention to your grow room’s temperature throughout its entire life cycle. If you do this, the results will definitely be to your liking. Read more about temperature or humidity


When to prune

Training grow huge cannabis buds

Many growers swear by “training” their plants. Training means bending, netting, or topping your plants in order for them to receive light in the most effective and even way possible. Training can include forms of pruning, but you don’t always need to use a blade to properly train your plants.

“LST” (low-stress training) is a way of training that doesn’t include any cutting. It is a way of manually manipulating your plants to grow flatter and wider rather than skinny and tall. It uses bending techniques that anyone can do (but proceed with caution, as with anything).
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LST is effective because it trains the plant to grow in a way that will maximize its intake of light. Every leaf that is exposed adds another source of energy to your plant so you can see why it is an effective technique. LST generally begins at a younger stage of life, before the plant has established its own shape. Another form of LST is called Screen of Green, and includes a net. The net (or screen) keeps your plants where you want them, and maximizes your plants’ use of the indoor growing space.

These forms of training can all be helpful in improving your plants’ yield, starting from an earlier stage of your plant’s life. Even if you are a veteran grower, trying a new training technique might be a great way of improving your yield significantly. Read the article How to prune marijuana plants for a list of all pruning techniques like topping, low stress trainging, super cropping and monster cropping

When to harvest

Harvesting grow huge weed buds

Ultimately, one of the most important factors in having the most potent and biggest buds possible is to harvest at the right time. You need to make sure you have let your buds become as ripe as possible before harvesting. Sometimes the amount of growth in a bud’s final two or three weeks can be as much as a 25% increase. In other words, by harvesting too early you could sacrifice a huge amount of weed. In general, the best time to harvest falls within a window of two or three weeks. Harvesting before this window of time would greatly reduce your overall yield, and will result in less potent weed.

You can also choose to harvest a bit earlier or later according to the type of high you would like to achieve. Earlier harvests generally get a more energetic buzzing high, while later harvests end up with a very relaxed high. For more harvesting tips read How to harvest marijuana plants

The best genetics

Genetics grow huge cannabis buds

Once again, genetics is everything. No matter what you do to increase the yield, poor genetics will prevent a good harvest. If you did choose marijuana seeds with great genetics, you will be pleased with the end result. Luckily, most strains that people buy today generally have very high yields and potency, which would not have been the case ten years ago. These strains will grow with fewer problems and will end up with plenty of happy, fat, potent buds.

All in all, the most important way you can increase your yield is by investing early on in a high-quality strain. It may seem expensive, but the payoff is well worth the upfront costs. Do your research and pay the money, because the result will be amazing. Check my seed shop to make sure you buy high quality marijuana seeds

Thanks for reading. Please leave comments or questions below and don’t forget to download my free grow bible


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Comment Section

70 thoughts on “How To Grow Huge Marijuana Buds

By jerry on 4 June 2013

I am just puzzeled about the site today. I was renewing my green card yesturday and told a new friend , About the site he gave me a call this A.M having trouble with it. I have disgovered this A.M that it has changed. It states even my email address is invaild. My opinon don’t care for your changes. But still wanted bad.! Wished could even get more tips. Jerry Thanks also

By tony serhal on 8 September 2014

how do you make those extremely large fat buds. puzzled

By tray delgado on 16 September 2014

Very good advice easy to understand thank you very much is the book as good thank you

By Janis on 4 December 2014

I would just like to know on average, how many months it takes before you see buds. This is my first attempt, it has been 3 months. Thanks!

By Holliwood on 11 March 2016

Have you switched to 12/12 light cycle yet?

By Glenn Herman on 10 November 2016

You can find pairs of hairs at bud sites in7 to 10 days, but full little buds about 2 1/2 to 3 weeks.

By leonard on 30 April 2015

how good is a 250 watt hps for flowering could i yield very large flowers

By Tarey on 10 March 2016

Is too much light when flowering a problem? I am trying to solve the smallish bud problem. My nugs are not tight, they are about the size of the first digit of my thumb when still damp. Equipment: I have 2 Mars Hydro 700 watt LEDs, and 2 350 watt CFL fill lights on a 12/12 schedule. I use these in a 4 x 4 tent. I used better nutes this time for flowering – adding Humboldt Secret Golden Tree and Humboldt’s Sonic Bloom (0-51-34), as well as a pinch of Miracle Grow for Azalea’s for Nitrogen (30-10-10). Sometimes I use Atomic Bloomz – hormones with vital nutrients. My feeding schedule is usually Nutes-Water-Water. I grow in dirt – Fox Farm. I’ve done LST. I work to keep temperatures and humidity in the right ball park. It is winter still in Detroit so it is really dry.(On my clones and seedlings and young plants I use a small humidifier. ) I have an CO2 tank with all the apparatus and I have to hook that up as soon as I get the room airtight the refill company scared me about having it blow up in the room and having the CO2 kill us! So I have been cagey with it). Guess that’s it. I was gearing toward SOG or SCROG, with 1.3 gallon planters, with the LST etc. and I found that my little SOG plants had bigger more compact nugs and output only 30% less than big 3 foot plants that had been in there for like months! But still nothing like what I see in these pictures on the net. I use good genetics – mostly (Nirvana!) seeds now since buying clones at first without knowing anything, and getting a pesky spider mite issue that takes constant vigilance. Any advice?

By Ryan on 12 March 2016

I live up in the north of Canada and its winter so very dry aswell but thats not an issue since i dont clone or use clones i only use quality seeds from herbies and have had awsome grows with this websites seeds, i use 2, 400w hps light for flower, and i also used em for veg for a bit but i found it got too hot in my 5×5 tent even with -30 air going in (highest temp +40 at one point so i took them out of the tent for flower because heat makes buds airy like you described) so watch out for that, also the light your using is apperently a very good 1 im goin to go with the 1200w mars 2 soon aswell so your lights are good, but your buckets are too small for that light in my opinion, i use 5 gal buckets and when i harvest the roots are almost taking up the whole bucket of dirt exept the 1 inch at the bottom (your plant can only grow 2-3 times the amount of your root zone so max your plant in a 1.3 gal bucket can grow up to double or triple the hight of that bucket so consider upsizeing, i dont think co2 would be a good idea unless you have 1000 watt hps lights (or equivelent) because you need the max amount of light you can get for all that co2 to be sucked up, alltho it will help a tad, also iv noticed if you do too many plants under 1 light the buds will be smaller because the lights being seperated amongst the other plants so you loght i belive is good for a 3×3 areaso id only put 4 plants not topped, lst’d manifolded or anything done to it just let it grow naturally. Or 1-2 topped/manifolded plants maxx. I also should mention i use advanced nutes ph perfect grow micro bloom for my base nutes in promix hp along with senzizyme, tarantula, b-52 and since iv switched to an eve tho most ppl hate me for it, its made my last harvest florish i got just about a pound from 6 3ft tall plants manifolded to 8 colas per plant i am switchin up my nutes next grow but not recommending those nutes as i have not used em yet but those an nutes packed a punch for bulking up buds but they were not as good as they couldve bin because the temp was really high uring weeks 1-3 untill i could afford to solve the problem but hope that helps you out (also look for stuff called snow storm ultra or gravity that shits insaaaane for dense buds) and stay away from miricle grow the time relesed ferts are horid and can wreak havoc on your plants even there perlite is laced with that time relesed shit i made that mistake my first grow and the buds tasted horible… Btw i use nivana seeds aswell they have awesome seeds

By Ryan on 12 March 2016

Should also answer your main question aswell you can never have too much light aslong as your not getting light burn on your plants and that 700mars should be about 1.3 metres away from your canopy because of the 190 degree reflectors on it

By Brian on 16 March 2016

How many hours are on your light bulbs would be my first thought. Also I would use 3 gallon pots instead of 1.5 gallon. You might be getting root lock.



By detgrow on 6 November 2016

You need to increase the size of your pots for starters and it sounds as if you might be over crowding them, all of the buds need to get lighting in order to grow big and potent no more than 4 plants in that space and ideally 10 gallon pots but 5’s will do also you could use 3’s but wont give you the biggest harvest and use root extender through out grow, good luck.

By SLY on 10 March 2016

I remember my first grow it has to be at least 30 years ago and I remember using a 250w HID MH/HPS light system and the seed strain was Big Bud and back then it was all trial and error but big buds are what I got, those buds were so heavy and huge that I had to tie these plants and buds up to stand or the stalk would have broke off and the entire buds would have went to waist.
So the answer to your question about using a 250w system is YES YOU CAN USE A 250w SYSTEM and don’t let anyone tell you that you can’t.

By Walli420 on 10 May 2015

Found your article very informative. I’m doing a LST now, but will try the kola harvesting on my nest grow as I’m going to let them go naturally to see what they can do. I am doing Island Sweet Skunk from Federation..

By Jennifer ILGM on 11 May 2015

Thanks Walli420, Keep us posted on the growth of your plants!

By michelle triplett on 20 June 2015

I need something to make the buds on outdoor plants bigger.any ideas

By Mattman on 30 July 2015

I utilize the LST method of tying down the top and some of the stronger side branches so that the main stem forms an “S” shape. This method really opens up the interior of my plants, stimulating many nodes into bud production that would otherwise not happen. The overall effect is that of a beautiful SoG (Sea of Green) where the side branches grow as tall as the top, creating this level plateau of green. Beautiful and easy to do without cutting or topping. I get just as much bud if I were to prune, and bending puts a lot less stress on the plants than cutting them.

By Jennifer ILGM on 31 July 2015

Thanks for sharing Mattman!!

By iloveweed on 13 September 2015

What are the best feeds to use along side golden tree to get huge buds ?

By latewood on 15 September 2015

What is Golden tree? I would recommend you joining our Support Forum in order to find a wider range of answers.

By Walter White on 6 October 2015

Below is the text from the above article:

“Another way of saving and focusing your female plant’s energy is by topping it. This is a form of pruning that requires you simply cut off the topmost buds. You can take this bud home to cure and smoke already, and in the meantime the remaining buds will grow even faster. Some growers swear by this every year to achieve bigger and more potent buds by the time the harvest rolls around.”

Is this article suggesting that I top my flowers? If so, how late in the flowering stage (I am in week 6) and how far down the cola do I cut? Please advise. Thank You!

By latewoodl on 10 October 2015


NO, not necessarily. I read it as suggesting an option. I would not take buds unless my trichomes showed that the buds were finished. I think what is suggested is that you can remove the kolas, and allow the rest of plant to finish for another week or so. I also do not feel that the buds will get that much bigger, but they do add a bit of weight.

By peteski72 on 3 February 2016

Most information we get here is good. I have to say that an important missing point here is how the plant reacts after it is topped or trimmed (pruning). Correct me if need be, but I was given a precaution before pruning, whenever we start to change these babies it will slow it’s growth for a week or two. I think this is a good point because to assess the stage of flowering to determine the next steps along the way we might be over doing expectation’s that after topping or whatever we shouldn’t be expecting immediate growth, it will take time. Yes? I’m into my fifth grow and I am curious why my girls aren’t larger. After the other grows I pull them up to see where the root development is at. They are uniformly not as developed as one would expect. I have kept good notes on all of these and adjusted and tuned accordingly. Yet to slim avail. All in all yields are pretty good and end results as well. I don’t want to be buying every nutrient and much else. I learned it’s not worth it to keep throwing new stuff into the mix ( this is one problem with many site ) they are basically selling their products along with instructional information. I suppose keep tuning in the basics is the way to go.

By kid kodak on 2 September 2016

To peteski72 /: I’m an old farmboy and I’m not at all convinced that cutting/pruning in any way “discourages” the plants from continuing their established level of growing “enthusiasm”.
e.g. These are “weeds”, remember. Have you ever owned a house? Ever tried to cultivate a lawn? Ever pulled the top off a dandelion? Or a plantain? Or crabgrass? If you have, was your experience that the plant “rolled over” and died?
Not likely. If anything, pruning renews the vigor of almost any plant. Read any gardening book about getting the most out of your Lilacs, Petunias, Geraniums, Begonias………ANYTHING. Pruning is a RECOMMENDED method of ENCOURAGING growth.

By latewood.ILGM on 5 February 2016

Whether or not; The plants growth slows down; You still should harvest by the color of the trichomes.

In general, the statement you made was correct. Anytime you stress the plant, you will see growth slow for a few days, while it heals itself.

By stephen roberson on 10 March 2016

I have grown pot for close to 20 years the last 12 legally, and what I’ve learned over the years is that those articles,photos of monster buds are fine, but give me a break, I have used the same strain since 2005 ( I do grow different strains with exceptional results) this strain produces small dense tight heavy buds that are killer. If you have a great strain that produce small tight killer buds clone and keep growing it. My strain is Pot of Gold check it out, seeds are not cheap but well worth it. One more thing after growing for many years I still have the passion and true enjoyment I had when I started so go for it because you’ll enjoy the process.

By gary on 11 March 2016

How much wood ash to water ratio should i apply?

By Gene on 11 March 2016

I would like to know the ash to water ratio. I check my soil nutrients a couple of times, and would like to get to phosphorus level up a little more for the budding stage .

By Jhonny Blaze on 11 March 2016

Great advice…. Another cool way to make your plant become a bush is FIMMING, If done right it can split into 3 or more new colas…

By latewood.ILGM on 15 March 2016

gary and Gene,

1st let me inform you that wood ash also contains in higher levels Potassium, Magnesium, and a small amount of Sulfur, as well as Phosphorous.

It is recommended to add wood ash at no more than a 1/4″-1/2″ to top of soil. You can blend it into soil before adding a plant. As far as Water to wood ash ration. I do not believe the water makes any difference as long as you can apply it evenly to your soil plants. Just make sure you calculate how much you would use to keep it in the application range mentioned above.

I recommend you all join our support forum for more discussion and guidance on this topic. Happy Growing! 🙂

By Ralph on 16 March 2016

Where can I buy seed for upstate new York in the southern tiers moist soil over 200 acreage to hide on soils not the any help

By Glenn Herman on 10 November 2016

Herbies. From G.B.. Thousands of strains. takes two to three weeks.

By Ralph on 16 March 2016

Need to buy seeds

By latewood.ILGM on 19 March 2016


Go to our Seed Shop and browse the quality selections. Choose a payment method and, there you go 🙂

By Bernie Kek on 16 March 2016

When should one stop misting the plants for fear of mold in the buds?

By latewood.ILGM on 19 March 2016

I personally do not like to mist my plant unless it is a proactive measure against disease or pests.

You definitely do not want to mist plants once they have developed buds.

Happy growing!

By Betty C on 25 March 2016

I love the articles and purchased the bible a few years ago. I grow my own medical marijuana since it’s not available in my state. I have limited space and grow autoflowering plants, but I cannot get near the yields everyone talks about. In a 2 gallon container, I am lucky to get about 1/2 ounce. The quality is excellent but I would love a higher yield. I use espoma soil, perlite and peat moss. I use light nuts ( FoxFarm ). What else can I do?

By wayne on 1 April 2016

Hi my name is wayne,i’m a pensioner

in australia would like to buy some seeds as i suffer from arthritis can you garrentee that they will be deliverd as you can understand i’m a bit sceptical.thanks wayne.

By Gilly on 13 May 2016

No worry’s Wayne! They do as they say! Had mine in 9 days!!! (USA)

By sean on 11 November 2016

Go for it Wayne! You have nothing to worry about, get you some and relieve your pain.

By Gilly on 6 May 2016

When they say 64 days to flower does this mean from seed to start of flower or from start of flower to harvest??? I’m growing in a 4′ x 4′ tent with a air cooled tube light with a 400 watt HPS Bulb. (16″ from canopy)Plants are 4 weeks old and about 6″ tall. I’m using Blue Mountain Organic : GROW IT GREEN during the veg. state and FLOWER POWER during the flowering state. (when the time comes) Also misting with a light solution of the same nutrients a couple times a week. Anything else I can do to improve the quality and quantity??? Thanks Gilly

By latewood.ILGM on 7 May 2016

Sorry Gilly; I can only giver you a broad answer due to you not informing us of what type seeds you are us
I generally consider 64 days yo finish the flowering time.

Happy growing.)

By Gilly on 12 May 2016

I’m growing 4 AK-47 plants.

By Jennifer ILGM on 12 May 2016

Gilly, keep us posted on your grow. We love to hear from fellow growers.

By Gilly on 13 May 2016

I just pinched the center growth last Sunday. I’m seeing very minor starts of new stems. Some show signs of growth on 1 side so to speak and not on the other? Is this common? How long before new stems will actually be visible to the eye? Other than that, they will be 5 wks old come this Saturday and they are 10″ to the tallest point from the dirt!!! Also, should I be pinching growth elsewhere or just wait on these 4 new stems to get big enough and then pinch those? They are bigger round than the buckets are now. When seedlings I covered the stem with dirt every time they grew a 1/2″ and all that then turns to root! My 1st branches are even with the dirt! Keeps the height down even further!

By Gilly on 13 May 2016

Is there a way to post pics???

By latewood.ILGM on 15 May 2016


Nothing is exclusively common when manipulating MJ plants. Perhgaps when tou piched you left a bit of the kola to allow for growth in one area.

No one can tell you whether or not to pinch more tops. This is a matter of you learning what you need to do in order to achieve the results that you want. Join our support forum and after making a few posts and making your self known to the community; You can start a topic or grow journal and post piks 😀

By latewood.ILGM on 15 May 2016


I forgot to add that patience is the strongest virtue of a grower. I cannot tell you how long it will take you to see more stems or “off shoots”. You just have to nurture plant everyday and wait for results. This is how we all learned. Happy growing. 😀

By Moose on 16 May 2016

I have a plant of unknown strain (bagseed) in week 1 flower about 9″ started in crappie MG soil and is in FFOF now. She is about 6 weeks old. Since she was transplanted into the good soil, should I consider adding nutes or leave as is? Ph is 6.6, temp is 68, unsure of humidity, using 2 x 23w soft white cfls

By Gilly on 16 May 2016

Can’t post on the forum! Says not permitted to view requested resource???

By latewood.ILGM on 17 May 2016


New members are not allowed to post until they read and respond to a few posts. This helps keeps “bots” from joining and spamming the forum. Better security.

By Gilly on 16 May 2016

Good news, Good news!!! I can actually see growth at the pinch points now!!! Not much but they are there for sure!!! Cool, Cool!!!

By latewood.ILGM on 17 May 2016


If you just transplanted into fresh FOF; I would not advise adding anything else for approx. a month. Plant will let you know when it needs a boost from some bloom nutrients.

By Allen on 21 May 2016

I am growing kimbo kush and it’s in about the 3rd or 4 th week of flowering and all of my leaves have started turning light green to yellowish color not just the main leafs but the sugar leaves around the flowers I just got a 600w hps air cooled light and put on them 2 weeks ago upgrade from 2 150w hps the 600w is around 10 to 12 in. Away from the tops could the stronger light be causing the leaves to turn or is this a nutrition problem

By Gilly on 21 May 2016

Allen, you probly need ta move ur lights up to about 24″ from the canopy. My 400W HPS is at 18″ – 20″ from the canopy. Keep a thermometer at the same height as the canopy so u can monitor the heat at the canopy level! Also u will need ta add some Phosphorus and Potassium during the flower stage!

By Gilly on 21 May 2016

Allen, how close is the light to the top of the canopy? With my 400 W HPS light I keep it at 18″ – 20″ so with a 600W HPS you probly need ta keep it right around 24″. You will need to add some Phosphorus during the flower stage also!

By Green on 23 May 2016

I have ak47’s in a small grow box. 2 weeks into flowering, but they grow to high. They will reach the to before i
see any buds. How do i correct that?

By Billz on 8 July 2016

Bend them over, be careful and roll the stalk in your fingers firat then just bend it over. They bend stalks will right themselves and actually xreate more budding sites..

By SIRV on 23 September 2016

How effective is worm castings in the complete growth cycle. I have pounds from my worm bins

By latewood.ILGM on 18 November 2016

Worm castings are a great amendment to add if you are building your own soil.

Happy growing 🙂

By Anthony Mandich on 10 November 2016

I find myself constantly taking leaves off of my plants. At least a couple nearly everyday. Is this bad?

By Glenn Herman on 10 November 2016

At the end this is very normal. Also any leaves not getting light will yellow.

By latewood.ILGM on 18 November 2016

Anthony Mandich,

Why would you do that? The leaves are equivalent to the heart and lungs of the plant. Without the leaves, photosynthesis cannot occur properly.

Good Luck 🙂

By sean on 11 November 2016

How much ash to use for one gallon hydro?

By Phil on 17 November 2016

Spider mite infestation week 7 bloom, can I remove all large buds with webbing, then shower plant without causing damage to remaining plant

By latewood.ILGM on 18 November 2016


Once you have developed a mite issue that has thrived to the point that you see webbing; You plant is pretty much done.

For mites: You need to treat them early, and after grow; Tear down grow area and wipe it all down and or soak everything in a weak bleach solution.

To treat mites; I use Food grade CODEX Diatomaceous Earth.*

* You cannot use pool grade filter DE. It is not suitable for human or animal consumption. Food grade CODEX DE is used a s afiller in foods and can also be used as a multi-vitamin and to rid animals and humans of parasites that are living in their digestive tract. 🙂

By latewood.ILGM on 18 November 2016


You do not add ash to hydro. Ash would be an ingredient in compost; Unless I misunderstand you.

Happy growing 🙂

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