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How To Grow Huge Marijuana Buds

How To Grow Huge Marijuana Buds

If you really want to maximize the outcome of your harvest, you are going to need to figure out a few things. You’ll need to be able to identify the type of plants you are growing, and then know exactly how to grow huge marijuana buds.

The bud of a marijuana plant is the prized appendage that appears after a plant enters the flowering stage of its life cycle. The leaves of the marijuana plant contain THC, but the buds of female plants are the most potent product by far.

So as an individual grower, it’s important to focus a significant amount of attention on the buds of your crop.

If you do it right, you can accomplish incredibly huge buds with a high THC content. This guide will equip you with the knowledge you need to accomplish that goal. Keep reading and learn to grow huge marijuana buds.

BONUS: make sure to read the bonus section about splitting the stem of your plant. The purpose of stem splitting is to disturb the flow of nutrients and water right at the base of the stem. This will cause the plant to start producing more trichomes which means heavier and denser buds with higher THC levels.

What are buds

Before you can grow huge marijuana buds, you need to have a bit of background knowledge. For starters, a bud is the growth that pops up during a plant’s flowering phase.

Cannabis buds

Cannabis buds

Although marijuana plants’ leaves also have a THC content, the buds have a far more concentrated amount. This is why the buds are the prize possession of any marijuana grower – they are the part of the plant that gets you high. While both male and female buds contain plenty of THC, there are some important differences that distinguish the two.

Male buds vs. female buds

Plenty of people seem to believe that male plants don’t produce smokeable buds at all. While it’s true that female buds contain the most THC levels, male buds are also quite potent and able to be smoked.

Male vs female cannabis buds

Male vs female cannabis buds

Male buds look like round flowers that are jam packed with pollen. Be careful that your males don’t pollinate your females because your plants will start producing seeds and less THC. I only grow males to produce seeds and remove them from my female plants.

Female buds will start showing up about two weeks later than male buds, and they start out as growths that are round, white-colored, and hairy. They show up on the very tip of every branch, as well as at the top of the plant. If treated well, the smallest buds on your female plants will grow to be longer than two inches.

See how this bud develops in 8 weeks

Since female buds really are the cream of the crop, you are going to want to ensure that their buds get as large (and potent) as possible. The best way to achieve this is simply by getting them to grow at a faster rate.

Tip: make sure to download my free Grow Bible for more tips to increase your yield

The faster they grow, the more time they have to become huge. Read the article Male or female marijuana plants for more information about sexing plants

Remove yellow leaves

Once it has entered the flowering stage, the number one thing to speed up your plant’s bud growth is to remove any dying leaves.

These leaves can be identifying by their yellowing color. They are a lost cause, and they are using up your plant’s energy and resources that could be focused on bigger and better things (namely, the buds). Take away the yellowing leaves to conserve these resources.

remove yellow leaves

Remove bottom yellow leaves

Instead of discarding these leaves, keep them and cure them properly. They have a high enough THC content that you can make cannabutter or weed brownies in case you run out of weed or while you are waiting for the big harvest.

The best nutrients

If you want your buds to be fat and juicy, you are going to have to spoil them a bit. Take special care of them during the flowering phase of the plant’s life cycle.

What buds crave most of all is phosphorous, so try a mixture of 10% nitrogen, 30% phosphorous, and 10% potassium (commonly referred to as NPK 10-30-10) to curb those cravings. At the end your buds can use a boost of extra potassium.

 

best nutrients

Use only the best nutrients like Flower Power

Read the article Best fertilizers for marijuana plants for more info on nutrients. For the best result, you can just use the special formula from the Flower Power system, a complete nutrient kit for up to 20 plants.

pH

If you haven’t grown marijuana before, you may not know nutrients and pH level go hand in hand. This is because the pH level of the soil (or whatever grow medium you are using) at the roots will affect your marijuana plant’s ability to absorb different kinds of nutrients. Many times, nutrient deficiency or toxicity is actually caused by a pH imbalance.

With the right pH levels you can grow huge buds. And with the wrong pH levels you can ruin your yield. So know your pH…

The main nutrients marijuana uses to grow are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. During vegetation they use a lot of nitrogen, first weeks of flowering a lot of phosphorus and at the end of flowering a lot of  potassium. But they also use lots of other nutrients, like iron, zinc, calcium and magnesium.

Each nutrient behaves differently when it is in an environment at a different pH level. To put it simply, the pH level decides how a nutrient or any chemical compound will “act.” Whether it falls apart, dissolves, or does something else is based on the pH level.

The pH level can be compared to the temperature and chemicals. For example, calcium in tap water won’t even be visible if the water is cold because it has dissolved completely. Once it surpasses the boiling point, however, it will precipitate instead.

Wrong pH levels create nutrient deficiencies

At certain acidity levels, certain elements can’t be absorbed by the marijuana plant’s roots. If the pH level is too low, for example, your marijuana plant won’t take in magnesium very well. Therefore, even if you’re feeding plenty of magnesium to your plants, they still will exhibit signs of a magnesium deficiency.

A magnesium deficiency includes yellowing of leaves and even whitening, but the veins will still be green colored. Simply supplying your marijuana plant with more magnesium will not suffice, however, since the pH level is actually the root of the cause. The key, in this case, is to balance the pH level (or, in the case of a magnesium deficiency, raise the pH level) until your plant can take in nutrients.

If growing in soil, you should keep the pH level right around 6. For marijuana plants growing in other types of media, such as rockwool or other hydroponic setups, keep the pH level at 5.5.

How to lower the pH

Of course, the other elements of keeping healthy plants in general also come into play with growing big buds. Proper amounts of water and light, along with temperature and good genetics will all affect the way your buds grow.

EC

The electric conductivity, or EC value, illustrates what the salt content is. This salt content is a measure of how much nutrients are in the soil or in the water you are feeding your plants. Water with an EC value of 0 is purified, without any salts or minerals. Its pH level should be 7 if it is balanced and purified.

Regular tap water would not be this balanced since it contains lots of minerals (including magnesium, calcium, and potassium). Generally speaking, tap water in the United States has a value of between 0.2 and 0.5. Tap water does not contain enough nutrients for marijuana plants – you will need to add some.

How to increase EC levels

The EC value is important because, if it is too low, there aren’t enough nutrients for your plants to access. An EC value that is too high could also be bad news for marijuana plants. If nutrient salts start to build up in the soil, the pH value will decrease, and the roots will not absorb most nutrients as efficiently as they should.

More about EC/TDS in the article The right EC and pH levels

How much light

One of the most surefire ways of increasing your bud growth is by increasing the intensity of the light that is hitting your plants.  Light is what helps marijuana plants absorb carbon dioxide and convert that carbon dioxide into useful sugars.

When it comes to marijuana plants, more light is almost always better. Plants that aren’t getting enough light will not grow as fast, or they may even stretch into tall, thin plants that are “reaching” to get closer to the sunlight. These plants will never be able to produce huge buds.

Lights to grow huge marijuana buds

LED lights are not know for their high yields

If your plant has already grown uneven colas because of poor lighting during its vegetative state, it will be difficult to evenly and effectively distribute the light. The buds themselves should have direct exposure to the light for best results.

Note: If you are an indoor grower, try moving the lights closer to your plants as long as temperatures don’t exceed 80 degrees. This will increase your yield significantly

Generally speaking, HPS lamps are the best lamps for an indoor growing operation. For every 13 square feet of growing area, make sure there are 400 Watts of light during the vegetation stage. Also, for every 13 sq ft make sure there is a 600-watt lamp during the flowering phase. Fluorescent lighting is a less expensive option that can work well too.

Here are more reference points for how much you can expect to achieve with various setups:

With a 200-watt CFL lamp, average 1.5 to 2.0 oz (3.5 oz for advanced growers) using a 3.5 x 1.5 x 6.5 ft. grow cabinet
With a 250-watt HPS lamp, average 3.0 to 5.0 oz (9.0 oz for advanced growers) using a 3.5 x 1.5 x 6.5 ft. grow cabinet
With a 400-watt HPS lamp, average 4.5 to 9.0 oz (14 oz for advanced growers) in a 3.5 x 3.5 x 7 ft grow room
With a 600-watt HPS lamp, average 5.0 to 10 oz (21 for advanced growers) in a 4 x 4 x 8 ft grow room
With a 1000-watt HPS lamp, average 9.0 to 18 oz (36 for advanced growers) in a 5 x 5 x 8 ft grow room (with extra CO2 only)

Read more about Marijuana grow lights if you’re growing indoors or about yield in my article about Marijuana yields

Carbon dioxide

Imagine how much you love food. That is how much your marijuana plants love carbon dioxide. Carbon dioxide is vital for the flowering and growth of your marijuana plant (and any plant, for that matter). Overall, the more carbon dioxide, the better.

If you increase the amount of CO2 that your plant is receiving, you will essentially be “feeding” them more, allowing their growth to be sped up even further and achieve bigger buds. Adding CO2 nicely complements increasing light intensity, since it basically is expanding your plant’s ability to use light.

Grow huge buds with CO2

Grow monster buds with CO2

Between 350 and 400 ppm of carbon dioxide is standard in the air. The marijuana plant will take this carbon dioxide and combine it with light energy to create the sugars it needs to grow.

If the level of carbon dioxide begins to drop, the sugar production in your marijuana plants will also start to decline. This is why ventilation is so important — there always needs to be an incoming supply of fresh carbon dioxide.

Note: CO2 alone will not increase the yield. The more light and CO2 your plant gets, the more efficiently it will grow. This will also keep your plant from ever getting too much light since the added CO2 will increase its light capacity.

Marijuana plants that have access to between 350 and 400 ppm of carbon dioxide won’t make a lot more sugars than is possible with a 600-watt HPS light bulb. Therefore, keeping the carbon dioxide level the same but increasing the wattage of the light you use will have little effect. However, increasing the carbon dioxide levels while also increasing the light will help your marijuana plants be far more productive — expect nearly double yields.

This can be an expensive endeavor with all the equipment that is required, but when your yield is so much higher, it can certainly be worth the trouble and the extra money it costs.

Using CO2 with CO2 reg and timer to get bigger buds
I
 

Although it’s pretty tricky to ever reach the light threshold, this is yet another way to “hack” your plant’s speed of growth. If you do decide to pump extra CO2 into your grow room, be sure to seal it off properly – although it works wonders for plants, high levels of CO2 can be very dangerous for humans. Read the article Growing marijuana with CO2 for more info

Temperature and humidity levels

Temperature and humidity need to be at the right level for your plants to reach their highest budding potential. If the temperature is too high, your buds won’t have as potent of an aroma.

Proper humidity while growing

Proper humidity while growing

When the light is turned on, an ideal temperature for the cuttings and seedlings is between 68ºF and 77ºF (20ºC and 25ºC). As the plants get older they can evaporate a little bit more and the temperature may increase to a maximum of 82ºF (28ºC).

When the lights are off, the temperature should lie between 59ºF and 72ºF (15ºC and 22ºC). Another important rule is that the temperature differences between day and night cannot be too high, a maximum difference of 50ºF (10ºC). So when it’s 82ºF (28ºC) during the day, it cannot go below 64ºF (18ºF) at night. A temperature difference of 40ºF (5ºC) is ideal.

These are the best humidity levels to grow huge buds:

Veg week 1: 70%
Veg week 2: 70%
Flowering week 1:  65%
Flowering week 2:  60%
Flowering week 3:  55%
Flowering week 4:  50%
Flowering week 5:  50%
Flowering week 6: 45%
Flowering week 7: 45%
Flowering week 8: 40%
Flowering week 9: 40%

Controlling your temperature can mean controlling the amount of potency and smell of your buds – when done properly. Make sure you pay special attention to your grow room’s temperature throughout its entire life cycle. If you do this, the results will definitely be to your liking. Read more about temperature or humidity

The limiting factor

If all the factors above are optimally present, your buds plants will grow as big as possible. But there’s always a limiting factor. This is the factor of which the value is furthest away from the optimal value.

Let’s say you have a 250 watt lamp, there’s sufficient CO2 in the room (350pp, just like outside) and the plant gets enough water and nutrients. The light will then be the limiting factor. Because if you use a 400 watt lamp in these circumstances, you can almost double your yield. And you can harvest even more with a 600 watt lamp.

But if you use a 1000 watt lamp, the plant will need more CO2 than standard air can provide, causing CO2 to become the limiting factor. The plant can’t convert all the energy from the lamp, because it needs more CO2 to do so. This is how all factors are connected and influence the functioning of a plant.

Depending on the stage the plant is in, these values slightly differ, but generally speaking, these are the perfect values;

Light: 600 watt per 12 square feet
CO2: 350 ppm
Water: as required*
EC: between 1.0 and 2.0
pH: 6
Temperature: 77 degrees F
Humidity: 50-60%

*These values depend on the stage the plants are in. Seedlings can’t take as much nutrients as older plants, and they’ll evaporate more and more water as they grow, so you’ll have to water them more. Read more in my article about Watering marijuana plants

Pruning tricks to increase the yield

Pruning is always done by tomato farmers to increase the yield. The small shoots between the branches and the trunk are removed so all the energy is used to maximize fruit production.

But also for marijuana plants it’s very effective to remove these useless shoots so the plant can develop bigger buds. Using this technique you will get a few big, hard and heavy buds instead of many smaller ones.

Pruning is mostly done by professional cannabis growers who wants to yield the maximum amount of weed per square foot. Because there is no energy wasted on the small buds and small leaves the top ones will grow bigger and heavier. The main colas will also get more light because they’re all at the same height.

Before and after pruning useless bottom shoots

pruning before after

Pruning should only be done during the vegetation stage because the plant needs time to recover and grow big leaves. Wait at least 3 days after pruning before forcing them into flower. Make sure your marijuana plants are growing again and evaporate enough water.

Go easy on the fertilizers and give them a few days to recover. If you have mastered this technique and do it at the right time it will definitely pay off. No more small and fluffy buds. You will only get big, hard, and heavy marijuana buds.

Scrogging

If you use the SCROG (Screen of Green) method you also have to prune your marijuana plants. Place a screen at 50 cm above your plants. Take the top out of every plant when it’s 10 centimeters from the screen and wait until the new tops grow through the screen. Wait until they grow 10 centimeters through the screen, gently bend them and connect them to the screen.

Scrog huge buds

Just two plants can grow many big buds with scrogging

Prune your marijuana plants after the first shoots have grown through the screen. Wait a few days and force them into flowering. During the first two weeks of the flowering phase your marijuana plants will keep growing.

Scrog result after 2 months with 4 plants

Combine the pruning and the SCROG technique and you can grow 1 gram of marijuana per watt of light. So if you have 1 600watt HPS bulb you should be able to grow 600 grams of cannabis. Temperature, humidity and other factors also have to be right of course.

LST or Low Stress Training

“LST” (low-stress training) is a way of training that doesn’t include any cutting. It is a way of manually manipulating your plants to grow flatter and wider rather than skinny and tall. It uses bending techniques that anyone can do (but proceed with caution, as with anything).

lst plant bigger buds

Train your plant for bigger buds

LST is effective because it trains the plant to grow in a way that will maximize its intake of light. Every leaf that is exposed adds another source of energy to your plant so you can see why it is an effective technique.

LST generally begins at a younger stage of life, before the plant has established its own shape. Another form of LST is called Screen of Green, and includes a net. The net (or screen) keeps your plants where you want them, and maximizes your plants’ use of the indoor growing space.

These forms of training can all be helpful in improving your plants’ yield, starting from an earlier stage of your plant’s life. Even if you are a veteran grower, trying a new training technique might be a great way of improving your yield significantly. Read the article How to prune marijuana plants for a list of all pruning techniques like topping, low stress trainging, super cropping and monster cropping.

When to harvest

Ultimately, one of the most important factors in having the most potent and biggest buds possible is to harvest at the right time. You need to make sure you have let your buds become as ripe as possible before harvesting.

Sometimes the amount of growth in a bud’s final two or three weeks can be as much as a 25% increase. In other words, by harvesting too early you could sacrifice a huge amount of weed.

When to harvest

Harvest at the right time

In general, the best time to harvest falls within a window of two or three weeks. Harvesting before this window of time would greatly reduce your overall yield, and will result in less potent weed.

Time of harvest affects the taste, smell and weight of your buds

Harvesting not ready

0-49% of the pistils are brown – Not ready yet

 

Harvesting almost ready

50-70% of the pistils are brown – Ready for harvest, but it’s still a bit young. Light taste and mellow high. Maximum weight not yet achieved

 

Ready for harvest

70-90% of the pistils are brown – Ready for harvest. Taste and effect are at their peak. You’ve reached maximum weight

 

Too late for harvest

90-100% of the pistils brown – Almost too late for harvest. Taste is heavy and the effect is narcotic. Harvest right away and don’t wait any longer

You can also choose to harvest a bit earlier or later according to the type of high you would like to achieve. Earlier harvests generally get a more energetic buzzing high, while later harvests end up with a very relaxed high. For more harvesting tips read How to harvest marijuana plants

The best genetics

Once again, genetics is everything. No matter what you do to increase the yield, poor genetics will prevent a good harvest. If you did choose marijuana seeds with great genetics, you will be pleased with the end result.

cannabis seeds

Invest money in good genetics

Luckily, most strains that people buy today generally have very high yields and potency, which would not have been the case ten years ago. These strains will grow with fewer problems and will end up with plenty of happy, fat, potent buds.

All in all, the most important way you can increase your yield is by investing early on in a high-quality strain. It may seem expensive, but the payoff is well worth the upfront costs. Do your research and pay the money, because the result will be amazing. Check my seed shop to make sure you buy high quality marijuana seeds

Splitting the stem

There is one method of increasing the yield of your marijuana plants that not everyone knows about — splitting the stem. This will help your plants’ buds be heavier and denser and will improve THC production as well.

This technique is exactly what it sounds like — it involves splitting the stem of your marijuana plant right at the bottom. It likely originated in China and Southeast Asia.

To be successful with the stem splitting technique, start out by tying the stem right at the base, just above the soil. Tie a second rope or cable tie a couple inches above that. Take a very sharp knife and cut from the top tie to the bottom tie. There should be one vertical cut that is a few inches in length.

The knife should remain inside until you have a pencil, chopsticks, or other objects to replace it with to keep both sides of the marijuana plant from touching each other. Remove the knife partially and rotate it to allow the chopstick or pencil enough space. Leave the ties in place, so the damage does not spread.

The thing about splitting the stem is that it is a tricky technique to master, so you should only try it on one plant per growing season until you are confident you’ve gotten it down. Apply this technique a few days or a week before harvest, not sooner.

Is splitting the stem something you’ve heard of before or are you going to try it? Please give me your thoughts on this technique in the comments below.

Produce more THC

The purpose of stem splitting is to disturb the flow of nutrients and water right at the base of the stem. Because of this, the plant will start producing more trichomes and more THC. Trichomes are responsible for making heavier, denser buds that are just better overall, so you can see why this is a useful technique. All cannabinoids are created in the trichomes

Trichomes are small, white drops of resin that appear on your buds — you probably have seen them at some point, whether or not you knew what they were at the time. Cannabinoids come from trichomes, so they are absolutely crucial to the marijuana consumer.

Harvest by looking at trichomes

Trichomes have the added bonus of serving as protectors of the marijuana plants, specifically against diseases and pests. This is because of the thick, sticky layer that it forms around the marijuana buds. It can also keep your marijuana buds safe against the wind, UV light, and water when necessary.

Because of this protective feature, more trichomes are produced during times of stress. Therefore, inducing a certain amount of stress can have amazing effects on your marijuana plants. Other known techniques are using ice water or keep their plants in the dark for 48 hours just before the harvest in an attempt to get more trichomes to be produced.

Thanks for reading. Please leave comments or questions below and don’t forget to download my free grow bible

Robert

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Comment Section

151 thoughts on “How To Grow Huge Marijuana Buds


By jerry on 4 June 2013

I am just puzzeled about the site today. I was renewing my green card yesturday and told a new friend , About the site he gave me a call this A.M having trouble with it. I have disgovered this A.M that it has changed. It states even my email address is invaild. My opinon don’t care for your changes. But still wanted bad.! Wished could even get more tips. Jerry Thanks also


By Paul on 7 February 2017

I had the same thing happen to me on another site while trying to buy seeds


By tony serhal on 8 September 2014

how do you make those extremely large fat buds. puzzled


By Bragi Asverdh on 13 January 2017

Large plants to start with nature is perportional perfection nature remains a balance of chaos you can’t grow 2 foot buds on a 4 or five foot plant nature won’t allow so start with huge plants equil big buds


By Donkey theeth on 1 April 2017

Yes u can


By tray delgado on 16 September 2014

Very good advice easy to understand thank you very much is the book as good thank you


By Janis on 4 December 2014

I would just like to know on average, how many months it takes before you see buds. This is my first attempt, it has been 3 months. Thanks!


By Holliwood on 11 March 2016

Have you switched to 12/12 light cycle yet?


By Glenn Herman on 10 November 2016

You can find pairs of hairs at bud sites in7 to 10 days, but full little buds about 2 1/2 to 3 weeks.


By janet on 13 January 2017

Once you switch your lights to 12 hours on, 12 hours off, depending on the strain you should start to see buds in about 2 weeks with them finishing around 8 weeks


By leonard on 30 April 2015

how good is a 250 watt hps for flowering could i yield very large flowers



By Tarey on 10 March 2016

Is too much light when flowering a problem? I am trying to solve the smallish bud problem. My nugs are not tight, they are about the size of the first digit of my thumb when still damp. Equipment: I have 2 Mars Hydro 700 watt LEDs, and 2 350 watt CFL fill lights on a 12/12 schedule. I use these in a 4 x 4 tent. I used better nutes this time for flowering – adding Humboldt Secret Golden Tree and Humboldt’s Sonic Bloom (0-51-34), as well as a pinch of Miracle Grow for Azalea’s for Nitrogen (30-10-10). Sometimes I use Atomic Bloomz – hormones with vital nutrients. My feeding schedule is usually Nutes-Water-Water. I grow in dirt – Fox Farm. I’ve done LST. I work to keep temperatures and humidity in the right ball park. It is winter still in Detroit so it is really dry.(On my clones and seedlings and young plants I use a small humidifier. ) I have an CO2 tank with all the apparatus and I have to hook that up as soon as I get the room airtight the refill company scared me about having it blow up in the room and having the CO2 kill us! So I have been cagey with it). Guess that’s it. I was gearing toward SOG or SCROG, with 1.3 gallon planters, with the LST etc. and I found that my little SOG plants had bigger more compact nugs and output only 30% less than big 3 foot plants that had been in there for like months! But still nothing like what I see in these pictures on the net. I use good genetics – mostly (Nirvana!) seeds now since buying clones at first without knowing anything, and getting a pesky spider mite issue that takes constant vigilance. Any advice?


By Ryan on 12 March 2016

I live up in the north of Canada and its winter so very dry aswell but thats not an issue since i dont clone or use clones i only use quality seeds from herbies and have had awsome grows with this websites seeds, i use 2, 400w hps light for flower, and i also used em for veg for a bit but i found it got too hot in my 5×5 tent even with -30 air going in (highest temp +40 at one point so i took them out of the tent for flower because heat makes buds airy like you described) so watch out for that, also the light your using is apperently a very good 1 im goin to go with the 1200w mars 2 soon aswell so your lights are good, but your buckets are too small for that light in my opinion, i use 5 gal buckets and when i harvest the roots are almost taking up the whole bucket of dirt exept the 1 inch at the bottom (your plant can only grow 2-3 times the amount of your root zone so max your plant in a 1.3 gal bucket can grow up to double or triple the hight of that bucket so consider upsizeing, i dont think co2 would be a good idea unless you have 1000 watt hps lights (or equivelent) because you need the max amount of light you can get for all that co2 to be sucked up, alltho it will help a tad, also iv noticed if you do too many plants under 1 light the buds will be smaller because the lights being seperated amongst the other plants so you loght i belive is good for a 3×3 areaso id only put 4 plants not topped, lst’d manifolded or anything done to it just let it grow naturally. Or 1-2 topped/manifolded plants maxx. I also should mention i use advanced nutes ph perfect grow micro bloom for my base nutes in promix hp along with senzizyme, tarantula, b-52 and since iv switched to an eve tho most ppl hate me for it, its made my last harvest florish i got just about a pound from 6 3ft tall plants manifolded to 8 colas per plant i am switchin up my nutes next grow but not recommending those nutes as i have not used em yet but those an nutes packed a punch for bulking up buds but they were not as good as they couldve bin because the temp was really high uring weeks 1-3 untill i could afford to solve the problem but hope that helps you out (also look for stuff called snow storm ultra or gravity that shits insaaaane for dense buds) and stay away from miricle grow the time relesed ferts are horid and can wreak havoc on your plants even there perlite is laced with that time relesed shit i made that mistake my first grow and the buds tasted horible… Btw i use nivana seeds aswell they have awesome seeds


By Ryan on 12 March 2016

Should also answer your main question aswell you can never have too much light aslong as your not getting light burn on your plants and that 700mars should be about 1.3 metres away from your canopy because of the 190 degree reflectors on it


By Puc on 13 January 2017

We grow outside and I pinch my plants several times when young plants, we used miricle grow our first year and had some awsome turnout. friends couldn’t enough Tahoe. We are lucky enough to know a longtime grower and grow facilities designer expert for all over Western States, and get very high quality clones from them, This year Jack Herrer, girlscout, old school, lemon haze, cherry cush and blueberry.. This year will get some clones, but I also want to try seeds. Not so good second year, two humid and huge buds that sweat. And diffidently too much nutrient experimenting. Had fun, fun but studing more, but sur wish there were more info on outdoor growing. Thanks so much for all intell.


By Brian on 16 March 2016

How many hours are on your light bulbs would be my first thought. Also I would use 3 gallon pots instead of 1.5 gallon. You might be getting root lock.

TIA,

Anom


By detgrow on 6 November 2016

You need to increase the size of your pots for starters and it sounds as if you might be over crowding them, all of the buds need to get lighting in order to grow big and potent no more than 4 plants in that space and ideally 10 gallon pots but 5’s will do also you could use 3’s but wont give you the biggest harvest and use root extender through out grow, good luck.


By Mike hawkslong on 12 January 2017

Nirvana sucks brother. I’ve used ilgm and nirvana both and ilgm blew them away in quality and production. You have more than enough light. But with led you want to keep your light on temp around 85 and your humidity around 40% I’d run beastie bloomz, and cha ching by Fox farm they will increase alot. You should also see where your ph is at to make sure you are not blocking out phosphorus.


By Paul on 12 January 2017

I agree, all I grew were males and herms with Nirvana. I have only had 1 male and no Herms with ILGM seeds.


By janet on 13 January 2017

The bigger the pot the bigger the bud for the most part.. Genetics play a role for sure, but if your pots are less than 3 gallon, you will not see big buds


By maine dave on 13 January 2017

spider mites must be rid of weeking plant whole tent needs to be cleaned and room


By Paul777 on 15 January 2017

Spider mites are a bugger to remove. Use neem oil & remove webs & large old leaves.
They hate humidity.
After harvest, thoroughly clean EVERYTHING in your grow room, lights, fans, pots, everything.
Quarantine bought/gifted clones for at least a week before putting near other plants & grow room. They’re often the source of infestation. Good luck.


By CarrieJane on 19 January 2017

Heat ..what’s your temp?


By SLY on 10 March 2016

I remember my first grow it has to be at least 30 years ago and I remember using a 250w HID MH/HPS light system and the seed strain was Big Bud and back then it was all trial and error but big buds are what I got, those buds were so heavy and huge that I had to tie these plants and buds up to stand or the stalk would have broke off and the entire buds would have went to waist.
So the answer to your question about using a 250w system is YES YOU CAN USE A 250w SYSTEM and don’t let anyone tell you that you can’t.


By Walli420 on 10 May 2015

Found your article very informative. I’m doing a LST now, but will try the kola harvesting on my nest grow as I’m going to let them go naturally to see what they can do. I am doing Island Sweet Skunk from Federation..


By Jennifer ILGM on 11 May 2015

Thanks Walli420, Keep us posted on the growth of your plants!


By michelle triplett on 20 June 2015

I need something to make the buds on outdoor plants bigger.any ideas


By Mattman on 30 July 2015

I utilize the LST method of tying down the top and some of the stronger side branches so that the main stem forms an “S” shape. This method really opens up the interior of my plants, stimulating many nodes into bud production that would otherwise not happen. The overall effect is that of a beautiful SoG (Sea of Green) where the side branches grow as tall as the top, creating this level plateau of green. Beautiful and easy to do without cutting or topping. I get just as much bud if I were to prune, and bending puts a lot less stress on the plants than cutting them.


By Jennifer ILGM on 31 July 2015

Thanks for sharing Mattman!!


By iloveweed on 13 September 2015

What are the best feeds to use along side golden tree to get huge buds ?


By latewood on 15 September 2015

What is Golden tree? I would recommend you joining our Support Forum in order to find a wider range of answers.


By Walter White on 6 October 2015

Below is the text from the above article:

SPEEDING UP BUD GROWTH
“Another way of saving and focusing your female plant’s energy is by topping it. This is a form of pruning that requires you simply cut off the topmost buds. You can take this bud home to cure and smoke already, and in the meantime the remaining buds will grow even faster. Some growers swear by this every year to achieve bigger and more potent buds by the time the harvest rolls around.”

Is this article suggesting that I top my flowers? If so, how late in the flowering stage (I am in week 6) and how far down the cola do I cut? Please advise. Thank You!
WW


By latewoodl on 10 October 2015

WW,

NO, not necessarily. I read it as suggesting an option. I would not take buds unless my trichomes showed that the buds were finished. I think what is suggested is that you can remove the kolas, and allow the rest of plant to finish for another week or so. I also do not feel that the buds will get that much bigger, but they do add a bit of weight.


By peteski72 on 3 February 2016

Most information we get here is good. I have to say that an important missing point here is how the plant reacts after it is topped or trimmed (pruning). Correct me if need be, but I was given a precaution before pruning, whenever we start to change these babies it will slow it’s growth for a week or two. I think this is a good point because to assess the stage of flowering to determine the next steps along the way we might be over doing expectation’s that after topping or whatever we shouldn’t be expecting immediate growth, it will take time. Yes? I’m into my fifth grow and I am curious why my girls aren’t larger. After the other grows I pull them up to see where the root development is at. They are uniformly not as developed as one would expect. I have kept good notes on all of these and adjusted and tuned accordingly. Yet to slim avail. All in all yields are pretty good and end results as well. I don’t want to be buying every nutrient and much else. I learned it’s not worth it to keep throwing new stuff into the mix ( this is one problem with many site ) they are basically selling their products along with instructional information. I suppose keep tuning in the basics is the way to go.


By kid kodak on 2 September 2016

To peteski72 /: I’m an old farmboy and I’m not at all convinced that cutting/pruning in any way “discourages” the plants from continuing their established level of growing “enthusiasm”.
e.g. These are “weeds”, remember. Have you ever owned a house? Ever tried to cultivate a lawn? Ever pulled the top off a dandelion? Or a plantain? Or crabgrass? If you have, was your experience that the plant “rolled over” and died?
Not likely. If anything, pruning renews the vigor of almost any plant. Read any gardening book about getting the most out of your Lilacs, Petunias, Geraniums, Begonias………ANYTHING. Pruning is a RECOMMENDED method of ENCOURAGING growth.


By latewood.ILGM on 5 February 2016

Whether or not; The plants growth slows down; You still should harvest by the color of the trichomes.

In general, the statement you made was correct. Anytime you stress the plant, you will see growth slow for a few days, while it heals itself.


By stephen roberson on 10 March 2016

I have grown pot for close to 20 years the last 12 legally, and what I’ve learned over the years is that those articles,photos of monster buds are fine, but give me a break, I have used the same strain since 2005 ( I do grow different strains with exceptional results) this strain produces small dense tight heavy buds that are killer. If you have a great strain that produce small tight killer buds clone and keep growing it. My strain is Pot of Gold check it out, seeds are not cheap but well worth it. One more thing after growing for many years I still have the passion and true enjoyment I had when I started so go for it because you’ll enjoy the process.


By Laromi on 23 February 2017

Where is safest place to buy good good seeds/outdoor


By gary on 11 March 2016

How much wood ash to water ratio should i apply?


By Gene on 11 March 2016

I would like to know the ash to water ratio. I check my soil nutrients a couple of times, and would like to get to phosphorus level up a little more for the budding stage .


By Jhonny Blaze on 11 March 2016

Great advice…. Another cool way to make your plant become a bush is FIMMING, If done right it can split into 3 or more new colas…


By latewood.ILGM on 15 March 2016

gary and Gene,

1st let me inform you that wood ash also contains in higher levels Potassium, Magnesium, and a small amount of Sulfur, as well as Phosphorous.

It is recommended to add wood ash at no more than a 1/4″-1/2″ to top of soil. You can blend it into soil before adding a plant. As far as Water to wood ash ration. I do not believe the water makes any difference as long as you can apply it evenly to your soil plants. Just make sure you calculate how much you would use to keep it in the application range mentioned above.

I recommend you all join our support forum for more discussion and guidance on this topic. Happy Growing! 🙂


By Ralph on 16 March 2016

Where can I buy seed for upstate new York in the southern tiers moist soil over 200 acreage to hide on soils not the any help


By Glenn Herman on 10 November 2016

Herbies. From G.B.. Thousands of strains. takes two to three weeks.


By Ralph on 16 March 2016

Need to buy seeds


By latewood.ILGM on 19 March 2016

Ralph,

Go to our Seed Shop and browse the quality selections. Choose a payment method and, there you go 🙂


By James on 13 January 2017

I have used nothing but Roberts seeds they always come within 2 weeks only once was there a problem some came crushed and with 1 picture i got new seeds more than i orderd think you ilgm i Will never. Buy seeds from any where else6


By Bernie Kek on 16 March 2016

When should one stop misting the plants for fear of mold in the buds?


By latewood.ILGM on 19 March 2016

I personally do not like to mist my plant unless it is a proactive measure against disease or pests.

You definitely do not want to mist plants once they have developed buds.

Happy growing!


By Betty C on 25 March 2016

I love the articles and purchased the bible a few years ago. I grow my own medical marijuana since it’s not available in my state. I have limited space and grow autoflowering plants, but I cannot get near the yields everyone talks about. In a 2 gallon container, I am lucky to get about 1/2 ounce. The quality is excellent but I would love a higher yield. I use espoma soil, perlite and peat moss. I use light nuts ( FoxFarm ). What else can I do?


By SunnySide on 18 January 2017

Aloha Betty C, I am finishing my 3rd Auto crop. I grow outside in Hawaii. I can offer you my way of getting more product from Autos. As you know they grow fast. So you must work fast and check them more often than regulars. First, start with a good organic soil. Fox Farm Ocean blend or their other one I can’t remember or Promix. Organic. They do not need any nutrients.(unless they develope a deficiency in their short life hmm. Good soil is enough. However, I do give them 1 tsp of Cal-Mag in 1 gal of water and split it among the five. Make sure soil is not wet wet and not bone dry. That’s the only thing in the nute thing. Why that? I have no idea. Start them in the pot they will finish in. No pot/container smaller than 3 gal. I use 3 gal., easier to move if need. Give them as much light as possible. I try to keep them in direct sunshine as much as possible and that’s why I grow them in 3 gal pots. No transplanting. Never. I have germinated in the plate and paper towel method and str8 in ground method. No difference. Ground easier. If doing the paper plate method, have pots ready before cuz they could pop in 12 hrs. Now for getting Bigger Yields time. Top/fim as many times you can b4 they start to flower. They grow so fast you may only get 1-2 chances. We all know the more tops the more buds. My last grow, I waited and watched vigilantly and got 10- 12 nice sides branches and bud sites on almost all 5. Just don’t go crazy on them. 😊 They need sun, water and good soil. You grow that wonderful gift of nature like any other type, strain of plant just easier and faster. Oh and PH the water, every time. Mine do well at above 6 below 7. I hope I didn’t forget anything. Oops, my yields:
1st attempt. (Summer) 5 Blueberry x White Widow =2.4 oz’s total.
2nd (summer) Blueberry x W.W. 5 plants 4.3 oz’s. (I like this strain) I was able to top more b4 it started to bud.
I just cut my grow of 5 of the same as above 2 weeks ago and they weighed in a hefty, I kid you not, 11.2 oz. Trimmed. I hope u didn’t fall asleep reading this and I was able to help. Autos are great, u can grow all year so you have medication on hand. They have their own little eco system houng on. Cool on that. Some breeds of seeds says 75-90 days til harvest. All my seeds ( I got them from same place same time) took from 90 – no longer than 100 days after breaking ground. Autos are cool, quick and easy. The biggest problem I had contradicts my “easy” statement, harvesting and drying them. Harvest was everyday for 7-10 days. Drying and curing, same thing. Label, label , label. 20-30 day cures and keep the rotation all year if you can. You will have great years.
P.S. I also grow other Feminized strains inbetween my autos. Mixing it up is the way to go. 💥🌺✌
Seeds by: ILGM, Nirvana, Herbies


By Itzel on 23 May 2017

GOO fully organic; use ALKALINE water; try making your own nutrients and pesticides but most important work with Mother Nature and it’s cycles, allow Mother Nature to do its thing..


By wayne on 1 April 2016

Hi my name is wayne,i’m a pensioner

in australia would like to buy some seeds as i suffer from arthritis can you garrentee that they will be deliverd as you can understand i’m a bit sceptical.thanks wayne.


By Gilly on 13 May 2016

No worry’s Wayne! They do as they say! Had mine in 9 days!!! (USA)


By sean on 11 November 2016

Go for it Wayne! You have nothing to worry about, get you some and relieve your pain.


By Gilly on 6 May 2016

When they say 64 days to flower does this mean from seed to start of flower or from start of flower to harvest??? I’m growing in a 4′ x 4′ tent with a air cooled tube light with a 400 watt HPS Bulb. (16″ from canopy)Plants are 4 weeks old and about 6″ tall. I’m using Blue Mountain Organic : GROW IT GREEN during the veg. state and FLOWER POWER during the flowering state. (when the time comes) Also misting with a light solution of the same nutrients a couple times a week. Anything else I can do to improve the quality and quantity??? Thanks Gilly


By latewood.ILGM on 7 May 2016

Sorry Gilly; I can only giver you a broad answer due to you not informing us of what type seeds you are us
I generally consider 64 days yo finish the flowering time.

Happy growing.)


By Gilly on 12 May 2016

I’m growing 4 AK-47 plants.


By Jennifer ILGM on 12 May 2016

Gilly, keep us posted on your grow. We love to hear from fellow growers.


By Gilly on 13 May 2016

I just pinched the center growth last Sunday. I’m seeing very minor starts of new stems. Some show signs of growth on 1 side so to speak and not on the other? Is this common? How long before new stems will actually be visible to the eye? Other than that, they will be 5 wks old come this Saturday and they are 10″ to the tallest point from the dirt!!! Also, should I be pinching growth elsewhere or just wait on these 4 new stems to get big enough and then pinch those? They are bigger round than the buckets are now. When seedlings I covered the stem with dirt every time they grew a 1/2″ and all that then turns to root! My 1st branches are even with the dirt! Keeps the height down even further!


By Gilly on 13 May 2016

Is there a way to post pics???


By latewood.ILGM on 15 May 2016

Gilly,

Nothing is exclusively common when manipulating MJ plants. Perhgaps when tou piched you left a bit of the kola to allow for growth in one area.

No one can tell you whether or not to pinch more tops. This is a matter of you learning what you need to do in order to achieve the results that you want. Join our support forum and after making a few posts and making your self known to the community; You can start a topic or grow journal and post piks 😀


By latewood.ILGM on 15 May 2016

Gilly,

I forgot to add that patience is the strongest virtue of a grower. I cannot tell you how long it will take you to see more stems or “off shoots”. You just have to nurture plant everyday and wait for results. This is how we all learned. Happy growing. 😀


By Moose on 16 May 2016

I have a plant of unknown strain (bagseed) in week 1 flower about 9″ started in crappie MG soil and is in FFOF now. She is about 6 weeks old. Since she was transplanted into the good soil, should I consider adding nutes or leave as is? Ph is 6.6, temp is 68, unsure of humidity, using 2 x 23w soft white cfls


By Gilly on 16 May 2016

Can’t post on the forum! Says not permitted to view requested resource???


By latewood.ILGM on 17 May 2016

Gilly,

New members are not allowed to post until they read and respond to a few posts. This helps keeps “bots” from joining and spamming the forum. Better security.


By Gilly on 16 May 2016

Good news, Good news!!! I can actually see growth at the pinch points now!!! Not much but they are there for sure!!! Cool, Cool!!!


By latewood.ILGM on 17 May 2016

Moose

If you just transplanted into fresh FOF; I would not advise adding anything else for approx. a month. Plant will let you know when it needs a boost from some bloom nutrients.


By Allen on 21 May 2016

I am growing kimbo kush and it’s in about the 3rd or 4 th week of flowering and all of my leaves have started turning light green to yellowish color not just the main leafs but the sugar leaves around the flowers I just got a 600w hps air cooled light and put on them 2 weeks ago upgrade from 2 150w hps the 600w is around 10 to 12 in. Away from the tops could the stronger light be causing the leaves to turn or is this a nutrition problem


By Gilly on 21 May 2016

Allen, you probly need ta move ur lights up to about 24″ from the canopy. My 400W HPS is at 18″ – 20″ from the canopy. Keep a thermometer at the same height as the canopy so u can monitor the heat at the canopy level! Also u will need ta add some Phosphorus and Potassium during the flower stage!


By Gilly on 21 May 2016

Allen, how close is the light to the top of the canopy? With my 400 W HPS light I keep it at 18″ – 20″ so with a 600W HPS you probly need ta keep it right around 24″. You will need to add some Phosphorus during the flower stage also!


By Green on 23 May 2016

I have ak47’s in a small grow box. 2 weeks into flowering, but they grow to high. They will reach the to before i
see any buds. How do i correct that?


By Billz on 8 July 2016

Bend them over, be careful and roll the stalk in your fingers firat then just bend it over. They bend stalks will right themselves and actually xreate more budding sites..


By SIRV on 23 September 2016

How effective is worm castings in the complete growth cycle. I have pounds from my worm bins


By latewood.ILGM on 18 November 2016

Worm castings are a great amendment to add if you are building your own soil.

Happy growing 🙂


By Anthony Mandich on 10 November 2016

I find myself constantly taking leaves off of my plants. At least a couple nearly everyday. Is this bad?


By Glenn Herman on 10 November 2016

At the end this is very normal. Also any leaves not getting light will yellow.


By latewood.ILGM on 18 November 2016

Anthony Mandich,

Why would you do that? The leaves are equivalent to the heart and lungs of the plant. Without the leaves, photosynthesis cannot occur properly.

Good Luck 🙂


By Drb on 15 January 2017

I think you are wrong about removing leaves. Yes , they are the solar panels for the plant but in my experiences I have completely stripped some of my plants down to just a few leaves once the budding has started and I still had good harvests. I am sure stripping all the leaves is not the best but removing enough leaves ( biggest, no smaller than 3″ leaves) so the light can penetrate the canopy deeper is a good thing !!


By sean on 11 November 2016

How much ash to use for one gallon hydro?


By Phil on 17 November 2016

Spider mite infestation week 7 bloom, can I remove all large buds with webbing, then shower plant without causing damage to remaining plant


By latewood.ILGM on 18 November 2016

Phil,

Once you have developed a mite issue that has thrived to the point that you see webbing; You plant is pretty much done.

For mites: You need to treat them early, and after grow; Tear down grow area and wipe it all down and or soak everything in a weak bleach solution.

To treat mites; I use Food grade CODEX Diatomaceous Earth.*

* You cannot use pool grade filter DE. It is not suitable for human or animal consumption. Food grade CODEX DE is used a s afiller in foods and can also be used as a multi-vitamin and to rid animals and humans of parasites that are living in their digestive tract. 🙂


By latewood.ILGM on 18 November 2016

sean,

You do not add ash to hydro. Ash would be an ingredient in compost; Unless I misunderstand you.

Happy growing 🙂


By trpoy hart on 28 December 2016

you are so closed minded i own my own home and business and love growing marijuana so open your mind a bit and do not be so judgemental


By Robert Griffes on 12 January 2017

Have never heard of that but I will definitely give it a try.


By Dianne Yonan on 12 January 2017

Splitting the plant sounds interesting. Would like to try this. Can I do this on an auto?


By latewood_ILGM on 16 January 2017

I would not advise this technique on an “auto”; However, you only have a week left before harvest; So, y not try it! 🙂


By Janice Bates on 12 January 2017

I cannot see how splitting the stems 3 days to one week before harvesting could possibly have enough time to affect the plant to grow larger buds or increase THC? Do you mean before flowering?


By Robert Bergman on 12 January 2017

Hi Janice,

It’s a week before harvest. This techniques creates a lot of stress on the plants. If you do it a few weeks before harvest your buds will ripen too fast. Which results in a lower yield and less trichomes.

Robert


By latewood_ILGM on 16 January 2017

Janice,

The article clearly states to use this technique a few days to a week before harvest. Thanks for asking.


By Charles Paulk on 12 January 2017

I loved the information on stem splitting. However I don’t remember it being in the grow bible? I will go back and look . Just would like to see all this great information in one book not several


By latewood_ILGM on 16 January 2017

The grow bible is a beginners guide to a successful grow. If you follow the direction in the grow bible you will succeed. Advanced techniques are published in the blog, and discussed at our support forum


By Kevin on 12 January 2017

Hi robert.. ive been growing now for about a year.. im gettin better every harvest.. i really like your tips on how to be successfull at growing.. im going to try the splitting of the stem this time.. keep up the great advice and spreading the knowledge of cannibus growing.. i always resort to your emails when having issues.. and no matter how good we growers think we know it all. Theres always issues that arrise during a grow cycle.. thanks for your efforts and keep up the great advice


By Fabrice Jarry on 12 January 2017

Hi Rob, I have split plants in the past, intentionally and my dog split one for me unintentionally that’s the way I found out the plant was producing lots more resin, the plant was split from tip to stem, and fell into two parts growing along the ground, incredibly yielding 3.9lbs of massive sticky buds. This plant was left alone, just watered. With other splits, I use a paddle pop stick sharpened at one end and just poke it through the base and leave it, does the same job, might try soaking stick in molasses and see if there’s a difference. Thank you for the bible, it’s been very handy, though I’d forgotten how to grow after 25yrs and living in Australia makes it very difficult to grow,we are so backward here, guess it’s like riding a bike. Thanks. Fab.


By Jimbo on 13 January 2017

At what stage do you split the stem! Start of budding! Halfway thru! ??? Makes absolutely perfect sense in my experiences of growing so many things for 35 plus years!!


By Roy ILGM on 13 January 2017

Hi Jimbo, It’s a week before harvest. This techniques creates a lot of stress on the plants. If you do it a few weeks before harvest your buds will ripen too fast. Which results in a lower yield and less trichomes.


By Kerry on 13 January 2017

Aloha! As you can see, i live in Hawaii, and grow nearly exclusively outdoors. My experience with outdoor growing in HI began in the mid-1970’s, at remote locations. For the past 5-6 years, i’ve been growing legally and openly where i live. thanks to HI’s medical marijuana provision. However, this presents unique problems: I live less than 100 yards from the ocean, on the windward side of my island, thus i have to deal with salt air, and warmer temps/higher humidity than when i grew in the interior decades ago. So i’m always looking for stains that can thrive in these conditions. In essence, growing outdoors in HI means growing in a micro-climate. I would value a recommendations of strains-particularly Hawaii-originated hybrids. I have this question regarding stem-splitting: what depth should the incision be? Am I to slice clear through the stem, or? I have heard of “scrogging” before, as well as various methods of stressing the plant to stimulate growth and potency. Thank you in advance of receiving the grow bible, im sure it will help me be more successful this season.


By Isabel on 24 September 2017

i’m in Colorado and the beginning of the year the laws are changing I can only grow 12 plants is there any recommendation for me to get more pounds will talk plans if you put three lights for plants would that increase the monthly amount of house you get ?


By Brianne T on 13 January 2017

My first grow was with 2 gallon pots and they are not even close to being big enough to support a plant. 4-5 gal root pouches are key for rootzone health and overall plant vitality. I started to use 5 gal root pouches and my plants are so much happier. I suggest you spend the $50 on Amazon for the 10 pack of 5 gal bags. I use a 400w hps with ilgm seeds and I have had an amazing %100 germination rate and incredibly healthy robust plants. My last white widows from ilgm sprouted in 2 days and yielded 2 ounces dry per plant and my amnesia hazes were a bit more. I bought seeds from seedssupreme and not a single plant sprouted out of 5 seeds. Ilgm seeds are a sure be and I would recommend them to everyone.


By Roy ILGM on 13 January 2017

Good stuff Brianne! Thanks for sharing!


By Bozlee on 13 January 2017

I ordered the high yield pack and 3 of 3 germinated and came out of the ground on Xmas. They are very healthy and I will be ordering a different strain today! I’m glad I trusted the cash by mail thing. It’s hard to have trust in anything nowadays. Thanks Robert!


By Roy ILGM on 16 January 2017

Good to hear all’s well Bozlee. Happy growing!


By Hempy on 13 January 2017

I love all the information, I learn something new every time I log in 😉 I never can learn enough here keep up the great work Robert ,just an open book of knowledge, thanks again


By sean on 14 January 2017

Its better then going to any school, every time Robert sends some information, there’s something that you will
Learn. I appreciate any tips that ilgm sends my way. Knocked over a lawn chair, split a plant, stood the ww back up and had one huge cola the size of two, two liter bottles. Lol Lol land weed, it was killer!


By Roy ILGM on 16 January 2017

Thanks for the love Hempy!


By CRAIG on 14 January 2017

I have 2 Haze plants that are 10 weeks flowering. Looks good, but I also have 5 plants of a mystery seeds in 10 weeks of flowering, they are some signs of white hairs, and they are now 5 ft tall. No sign of any buds, the question is ? Do some plants take more than 3 months flowering ?


By latewood_ILGM on 16 January 2017

Yes they do. I find that most Indica plants finish in 8-12 weeks, and Sativa 12-16 weeks. I also find that length of veg cycle has a direct affect on finishing time.

Happy growing


By Richie on 14 January 2017

I am strictly hydro,can I still split the stems? I never did that before but will try anything for bigger better buds. My next harvest is 3/11 so ill try splitting on 3/5. I will let you know.


By latewood_ILGM on 16 January 2017

Richie,

Method of growing is moot. Whether you grow in soil, soil-0less or hydro 🙂


By Ronald Reed on 14 January 2017

I am definitely going to try this this spring. I’ve lost all but two of my white widows I ordered, I can’t keep up with the cold here in Maine, I will order more this spring .


By latewood_ILGM on 16 January 2017

Ronald. We hope you can find a way to grow indoors; After all; It is legal in Maine now !


By Ricky Kidder on 15 January 2017

You didn’t say when to use you stem splitting technique. ? When the buds start forming?


By Roy ILGM on 16 January 2017

Hi Ricky, Robert explains in one of the comments:
“It’s a week before harvest. This techniques creates a lot of stress on the plants. If you do it a few weeks before harvest your buds will ripen too fast. Which results in a lower yield and less trichomes.”


By Hemp Invaders on 16 January 2017

I went for it and split the stem and placed a chop stick in there.. interesting concept


By latewood_ILGM on 16 January 2017

Hemp Invaders,

Perhaps you would like to join our support forum and share your results with allk the friendly and knowledgeable members 🙂


By Tony on 18 January 2017

I am starting my 2nd harvest soon. I used WW auto/fem from ILGM last time and will use them again this time. I planted 4 plants in a 2×4 tent with 400 watt lights. last time I added 2 small uv lights to the tent. This time I will only plant 2 plants and remove the 2 extra uv lights. Last time I had two plants in 3 gal pots and 2 plants in 2 gallon pots. In the small pots the plants produced very small buds. In the larger pots I got bigger buds, but all four plants tasted green and nasty and the effect was bad. This time the two plants I plant will be in 5 gallon pots. Last time I germinated in paper towels and planted in cups then transplanted to pots. This time I will plant and germ in the pots they will live in. I have the grow bible but I don’t see a lot of info on growing autos. any other suggestions?



By Rv1157 on 22 January 2017

Hi, I’m growing unknown sativas. They’re in week 6 of flower. There seems to be two distinct strains. On one strain the leaves are long and thin, the other looks similar but the leaves are a bit wider and are blooming later. Unfortunately I have both strains in one pot. Can I still flush with water for two weeks without harming the other strain? I had no idea I would have so many female plants. They’re about 4 feet tall in a 2 x 3 bedroom closet!


By latewood_ILGM on 23 January 2017

Rv1157,

You made your bed, so to speak.

What you do to one plant will affect the other. So you weill have to allow the faster plant to become more ripe before harvesting. It is always best to have a solid plan and some insight into proper plant management before you start too many seeds 😀

Happy growing!


By Coltfire on 27 January 2017

After reading this ,it is something I want to try, does this work on outdoor In the ground plants?


By latewood_ILGM on 28 January 2017

Coltfire,

Does what work? Plase do not ask a vague question. We are glad help you if you inform us of what “this” refers to.


By mike bolin on 8 February 2017

Thank you for the e-mail. There is such a vast treasure trove of info. I was following you on you tube and purchased books and other things from your site.


By Roy ILGM on 13 February 2017

Awesome Mike, happy to hear we’re helping out!


By Andy on 17 March 2017

The splitting sounds interesting….but as a new grower I think I will stick to just growing the plants as is. I’m using a 1000w LED light for 4 plants. I’m using some high content KNP soil and leaves are popping up all over the place, which will help with photosynthesis. They have been on 12/12 light for 5 days now, I need to get a mini dehumidifier because the cupboard seems to generate quite a lot of humidity. From reading as much info as possible I need to get the humidity down a little bit. It can fluctuate from 60 to 70% and I will need to get it down to about 40-50%. I’ve got to plants from bagseeds and if necessary will remove them if they are male of hermes, the other 2 consist of 1 feminised pineapple chunk and the other is feminised peppermint kush….So, I’m hoping all 4 are females but only time will tell I guess :/


By Andy on 17 March 2017

P.S. the reason I’m growing them….pain relief, I don’t want to take anymore medication, as I am already on enough tablets to open my own chemists lol



By mcdrichj420 on 7 April 2017

5 degrees C is 9 degrees F not 50. C to F is C*1.8 you only add 32 when talking about a regular temp not a difference.


By Bozlee on 29 April 2017

I have tried splitting the stems on a chocolope and amniesia haze. it’s been 4 days and not much change. the trichomes are starting to go cloudy so I think the timing was right. I used kabob skewers. Erlier in the year I used toothpics in upper stems to try to slow down growth (my lights ran out of height) and it helped considerably. It also made them stronger.I keep you updated at harvest.


By nt3 on 14 August 2017

Bozlee, on your comment abt splitting to control height, can comment more. i have low ceilings, am using LST, SCROGGING, FIMMING, etc. Thx!


By Mrdean on 28 May 2017

Just wondering if I’m only using a 3200 lumen 150 watt equivalent 4ft led light that’s spectrum is daylight nondimmable. Should I get more lights for four plants?


By latewood.ILGM on 3 June 2017

Mrdean,

That sounds lie an interesting lamp you have. I find it best to use 600 watts in a 4×4′ – 5×5′ space with 4 plants.

Happy growing


By joseph on 12 July 2017

I have 3 plants. One is 15in the other is 11in. They are outdoors plants. I noticed that all 3 are female. One plant is in a little over a gallon container. That’s the bigger one. The other is in a 3 gallon. What should I put them in for good 5 Gallon each? Also when will they begin to flower give or take? I really need to get to the next important step an need a little advice and a good mentor on my first grow. Please anytime. Joseph


By Roy ILGM on 12 July 2017

Hi Joseph, it’s best to hop onto our support forum. Our experts and other growers are always ready and willing to help out!


By latewood_ILGMl on 15 August 2017

Joseph,

If you join our forum we will be glad to help you become a grow expert by the end of your 1st 2 grows. 🙂


By Paul on 11 August 2017

Looking for so me advice.
This is my second grow and I let me plants get pretty tall 36 inches before going to 12/12. The plants stretched badly up to 54 inches into the light. My only option was to tie the plants down and gave them grow across a string. I’m now 12 weeks into the 12/12 and all my bud pistols are very white. Could the tying down have slowed the growth by as much as a month? This stuff looks like I have weeks still to go? Any help or advice would be great.


By latewood_ILGMl on 15 August 2017

Paul,

MOst likely you have a land race Sativa, and it takes 3-4 months or longer to finsih.

I suggest you look us up at our forum and we will be gald to help you move forward.

Shortening light photo period to 11/13, 10/14 can help the plant finish faster.

Happy growing, see you at the forum 🙂


By Mike on 22 August 2017

I have a beautiful big bud plant in flower. 1 of its smaller branches has just a single bud on the end like a lollipop. I waited for the bud to be established then made a shallow split through the center. At first it appeared the bud was dying. After 3 days it now appears it’s splitting into 2 separate buds. Also I’ve noticed that unless you touch the plant or gently squeeze a bud there isn’t much of a smell to her. I already harvested a few other plants from ILGM bought seeds. Which every seed I have started has been a female. My first grow wasn’t productive as I was using organic nutrients that created a build up in my hydroponic setup. I found out that hydrogen peroxide would clear it up. The bad end of using the peroxide to stop the build up is it killed the nutrients in the nutrient tank. So the plants got nutrients for 2-3 days then I cleared out the build up and killed the nutrients and basically flushed the roots for 11-12 days. I switched nutrients and found I was pruning my plants in veg every other day. I put the big bud in flower and wishing 5 days she had well established flowers growing from every node and top from every branch and sub branch. She is on day 21 of 12/12 flower cycle and she’s making my mouth water with anticipation.


By Mary on 26 August 2017

I have heard when you harvest your plant to put your root in boiling water to rush the thc to the buds .is this right?


By Lynette Watkins on 4 September 2017

I’d like to try the stem splitting on one of my plants that is not doing as well as the others. 2nd year outdoor grower. Plants are looking great (I think). Had great results last year using your guide. Should I test my splitting on a well plant or the slow grower?


By latewood_ILGMl on 7 September 2017

Lynette,

This is totally your choice. It is an experiment for you, so you need to decide which plant to experiment with. Happy growing >)


By ranay keller on 22 September 2017

i think the reasoning is sound so i’m going to try if i can do it . i’ll probably get somone else do it for me as they will be steadier than i. i hzve ms and one plant. do you syill recomend this?


By kevin on 25 September 2017

ive live in oregon, and it’s starting to rain. I have a plant I rescued and is treating me well,I’ve never done this before,so to prevent over watering,I put it in a corner and put an umbrella over it,helps a little but now the cold weather is setting in and it is just now starting to bud,my question is “HELP” !. Can i go from outside to inside without killing it? I mean is there a way to adjust it’s environment, I mean from outside to in, in one move cause it is in such a big pot,I have problems moving 6 inch, she’s came this far i can’t give up one her know,and this weather will be the death of her, if i don’t do something now! thank you for reading and hope for some helpfull advice soon,thx


By latewood_ILGM on 28 September 2017

Kevin,

Join our support forum. We can help you there. Briefly, yes you can move it inside.


By latewood_ILGM on 28 September 2017

Chris,

We do not rate light systems. If you join our support forum, I can guarantee you that we have several people with informed opinions that can help you out.

Peace, lw


By ED on 28 September 2017

How do you use ice water in your increasing trichomes. I flush heavily with ice water 5to7days (last watering) before harvest, works for us.


By latewood_ILGM on 4 October 2017

Ed,

Flushing your plants with ice water at finish serves one purpose, only. By flushing with ice water, you lock the phosphorous. Locking the phosphorous uptake causes a color change in blue and purple type strains.

Flushing with ice water has no affect on producing higher quality trichomes.

Happy growing! 🙂


By Diesel D on 5 October 2017

I read about “splitting”, going to try on sour D, not the entire plant just some branches, pistols are about 70% brown, let you know how it goes


By Dave on 6 October 2017

I read about “splitting”, going to try on sour D, not the entire plant just some branches, pistols are about 80% brown, let you know how it goes

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